Few houses are having a greater impact on fashion today than Balenciaga, thanks above all to the tenure of its Georgian émigré creative director Demna Gvasalia, who sent out a musing on arty power dressing on Sunday.
The French luxury house presented a collection that was true to its roots at Paris Fashion Week on on Saturday, spotlighting leather – its core material – and putting exceptional artesanal craftsmanship centre stage.
The Japanese designer constructed his whole collection for next summer around the trench coat, a perennial classic which he deconstructed and dissected in order to reassemble it in an infinite variety of pieces.
Designers explored the many aspects of womenswear in Paris on Friday, with Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh sending out a delicate yet playful collection for Nini Ricci, while Olivier Theyskens went chic and sexy.
A key test of a designer is influence – and few have had so much influence this century as Hedi Slimane, creative director of Celine, who sent out a haut bobo collection on Friday with plenty of cosmopolitan good taste.
The US skateboarding brand and the British designer have created a line inspired by US Marines uniforms from WW2, which they presented at Parisian concept store Nous, in the first part of a three-season collaboration.
It is hard to imagine a more contemporary designer than Virgil Abloh, who staged his latest show inside France’s greatest temple to contemporary art, the Pompidou Centre. But then was nowhere to be seen.
Julien Dossena unveiled Paco Rabanne's first menswear looks at Paris Fashion Week on Thursday, sending out a joyful, pop collection where the boys and girls looked to have been dipping into each other's wardrobes.