Paul Smith goes deep sea fishing

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jun 25, 2017

His shopping habits, private archives, old record collections and trips to fish markets were some of the inspirations for Sir Paul Smith’s latest collection, and that turned out to be a very good thing.
 

Back in the 70s, this fashionable knight used to shop for vividly colored party shirts in New York and San Francisco, then retail them in his boutique back home in Nottingham, England. These were at the heart of a up-tempo show, where every second look featured a beachside or aquatic reference. The invites were all rubber fish – from mackerel to Manta ray. The collection was entitled Ocean. Sea anemones, coral and tropical fish swam across silk prints and kitschy leather bags.
 
“At this time of the year everybody would prefer to be beside the sea, in shorts rolling on sand. Not stuck here in a hot hall,” chuckled Smith, in the back stage of the Lycèe Carnot in the 17th arrondissement.

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In commercial terms, Smith has developed a highly successful semi active sport PS range, which he unveiled in Pitti 10 days ago. Many of its techy fabric were used in this signature collection. Plus, Sir Paul riffed on his silhouettes – from super skinny suits to a new banana shaped pant.

 
Included in the show, 19 looks for women to be delivered in January 2018. Both men and women featured longer jackets – by 5 centimeters – and fixed narrow lapels. Playful throughout, especially the graphics culled from sardine tins and signage inside the legendary Tsukiji fish market in Tokyo – one of the fashion’s knight’s favorite destinations.
 
“A little irreverence in these times can be useful!” he exclaimed. And, quite right too.