Feb 19, 2015
NYFW highlights: Proenza Schouler and Sophie Theallet
Feb 19, 2015
Both designer labels shared a love of statement hosiery for Fall 2015. Sophie Theallet connected with her inner gypsy while Proenza Schouler produced a tribal-inspired wardrobe featuring cocoon-like knitwear and enveloping felted overcoats.
Inspired by an audacious gypsy woman, Sophie Theallet served up a bold collection with a strong evening wear focus. Despite the pussy bow blouses, cascading ruffles and an abundance of lace, there was nothing girly about Theallet's vision for fall.
Deceivingly demure looks were sharply tailored and featured killer thigh-flashing splits. Waistlines and necklines were higher than high, lending an old-school feel.
Skirts were also central to the collection, laying emphasis on the models' legs which were clad in sexy classic fishnet hosiery.
Metallic brocade and lustrous fabrics such as silk in romantic hues of maroon and purple provided a welcome break after so many seasons of matte.
Some of Theallet's more theatrical looks were reminiscent of the character Rita Hayworth played in "The Loves of Carmen."
On the penultimate day of New York's bi-annual fashion extravaganza, design duo Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough were positively thrilled about presenting the Proenza Schouler show at arty venue The Whitney Museum. The designers' current obsession with abstract expressionism in mid-century New York made them all the more happy to fill the currently empty art gallery with their latest fashions.
Movement and textile innovation were key to this latest collection. Each fabric was specifically designed for the garment. The finale dresses in eyeleted chiffon were great examples of Proenza Schouler's textile prowess.
The label's signature bandage dresses and tops were worn off the shoulder and slashed across the torso, exposing just the right amount of flesh.
Hemlines and coat tails were spliced to perfection -- all the better, in fact for showing off the fancy thick fishnet hose that the models were wearing.
Felted trench coats with large waist-cinching sashes and pieces of fabric that appeared to peel away from the body were also noteworthy.
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