New York Fashion Week, with Tom Ford and Rihanna back home, kicks off on Wednesday
Plenty of major names have skipped out of New York Fashion Week; Tommy Hilfiger is off to London for his show and the season has been shortened by one day. Nonetheless, despite, a five-brand departure, there still will be plenty of action in New York Fashion Week, which opens on Wednesday, Sept 6.
Moreover, even if many fascinating designers have felt the allure of Europe; truly major global brands – Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Michael Kors and Tory Burch – are still firmly committed to New York, still the ritziest, most celebrity fueled and busiest catwalk season of all. With celebrity brands adding plenty of oomph – like Rihanna, who is bringing her critically acclaimed Fenty show back from Paris to Manhattan.
Plus, three other major celebrity brands: Eva Longoria will catwalk debut her EL collection at Kia Style360 in Hell’s Kitchen. Rosario Dawson’s artisan-ethical line Studio 189 and Orange Is the New Black star Alysia Reiner, with what’s described as the eco-friendly ethical label Livari, will also stage celebrity-infused collections.
It’s true that Los-Angeles-based Rodarte and NYC darlings Proenza Schouler moved to Paris for the couture season in July. While Thom Browne took his menswear show all the way to the Beaux Arts, staging an epic show inside the iconic French art college. New York has also suffered the departure of Joseph Altuzarra – who will take his spring 2018 show to the French capital. Though, in Altuzarra’s defense, he happens to be French. Moreover, albeit only for one night only, Hilfiger has moved his collaborative collection with uber-model Gigi Hadid to London – to that legendary music temple, The Roundhouse.
“My opinion on the departures? Good for them. We are proud that designers that were able to incubate and start a label here and can be accepted in Paris to show. There should not be borders between fashion weeks; fashion is very international. Joseph Altuzarra has said he wouldn’t have had the opportunity to start his brand in another city than NYC. Moreover, the fact is our CFDA/Vogue programs have given designers like Rodarte, Thom Browne and Proenza the chance to shine alongside big heritage European brands. That is a very proud moment for us, and not one that I think is reflected of anything wrong with NYC,” argued Steven Kolb, CEO of the Council of Fashion Designers of American (CFDA).
Kicking off the action, the first three days feature major evening shows: with the return of Tom Ford to NYC with 8PM show on Wednesday: followed a day later by Raf Simons at Calvin Klein and 25 hours after that by a 20th anniversary show from Jeremy Scott. Maintaining a long-standing tradition, Marc Jacobs will close out the season with a 6PM catwalk display.
“Tom hasn’t show here for a while, but he has said that New York will be his home for the fashion week. And he’s always an interesting and important show. And remember Raf Simons won two CFDA awards for his debut show of Calvin. So, this will be a highly anticipated show,” notes Kolb.
And there’s even a husband and wife moment too: Victoria Beckham with her Sunday morning slot; and hubby David hosting an Autumnal British Garden Party cocktail with Kent & Curwen designer Daniel Kearns on the terrace of Saks on Tuesday night.
Insiders are predicting great things from Marc Jacobs, who has been putting in the long hours in his studio for this show. The first before new CEO, Eric Marechalle.
“In spite of all the business trouble, Marc, creatively, is back on top of his game. You will see that,” insists one informed observer.
And, expect the unexpected at Alexander Wang – who showed last year in Harlem, but is, so far, keeping his location under wraps for this season.
New York, however, remains a divided season: with the calendar separated between the CFDA’s own listing, and a second by IMG of smaller labels, which holds shows in two key venues – Skylight Clarkson and The Shop, both in the West Village.
Not everything is in Manhattan. Ralph Lauren is inviting guests to his home in Bedford, Westchester.
“Where we will all get to see his car collection as well as a little bit of the private world of Ralph. Certainly, an evening to be remembered,” smiled Kolb, before adding: “When people ask me about venues, to me the greatest venue is the city of the New York!"
September 2017 already sounds like a bumper season for iconic locations: Carolina Herrera is jumping museums – where previously she showed in the Frick; this season it’s the MOMA; Tory Burch is moving in the opposite direction from the Downtown Whitney to uptown in the Cooper Hewitt design museum. Nicole Miller is going to the Gramercy Park hotel rooftop, and Derek Lam shows at the pool of Mies van der Rohe’s Seagram Building.
Fasten your seatbelts, it should be a swell ride.
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