Moschino brings S&M to men's tailoring
The online invitation featured a drawing of a safety pin. As for the physical invitation, it came in the form of an old VHS cassette... with these sorts of clues, attendees of the Moschino runway should have been expecting a special show, in line with the subversive creativity of the brand's founder, Franco Moschino, which has been perfectly reinterpreted by Jeremy Scott since 2014.
For the fall/winter 2018-19 menswear collection, presented this Saturday in Milan along with the womenswear pre-collection, Moschino's creative director imagined the explosive encounter between the mondain man, with his unchanging sartorial codes, and his dark side, by plunging unequivocally into the world of BDSM.
Banker suits were cut in half and stripped of their shoulders, or even of their entire top section, and held together by black braces or straps. Classic gray wool coats or suit jackets were covered in notes, each printed with a word like "Bone", "Trash" or "Hot", and attached directly to the outfit with safety pins for a guaranteed punk effect.
A burgundy silk damask waistcoat was sewn onto the front of a black coat, a raincoat was worn with bare legs (and boots, obviously!), the back of a rust-colored woolen coat was covered in crystals, while another, tweed this time, was bordered with feathers.
The men's ties were all in black leather, and all the standard S&M accessories put in an appearance, either in leather or latex: masks, helmets, biker boots. Not forgetting, of course, long glamorous gloves and corsets, as well as dog collars. The women, for their part, were wearing ultra-sexy outfits coupled with never-ending lace-up thigh-high boots.
Jeremy Scott also had a lot of fun with the idea of dragging. A number of coats were adorned with oversized trains which flowed across the ground and extended into almost surreal shapes: a giant glove here, the back of a coat there, with its sleeves clutching at the ground. Elsewhere, a male model was wearing a see-through black dressing gown bordered with tulle.
And finally, two tailcoats appeared, joined at the tail, linking the man and woman who were wearing them together forever, like twins.
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