Jan 19, 2015
Men's fashion week: After London and Milan, all eyes will be turned to Paris
Jan 19, 2015
After London and Milan, the baton goes to the French capital. On Wednesday 21 to Sunday 25 January, Paris will unveil its men's ready-to-wear collections for fall/winter 2015-16. There are 47 names on the programme, compared to 52 in June, as well as some fifteen presentations, by appointment only.
Valentino, Rick Owens, Louis Vuitton, Yohji Yamamoto, Cerruti, Givenchy, Kenzo, Dior Homme, Hermès, Lanvin and Saint Laurent will notably be present, sharing the stage with emerging talents in the fashion world, while several defections are also to be noted, both among established brands and young designers.
Carven, for example, is taking a pass this season. The house still hasn't appointed a new artistic director after the departure, at the end of September, of Guillaume Henry, who is now at Nina Ricci. The Parisian house will therefore not be putting on a runway show but will present its collection, by appointment.
The John Galliano ready-to-wear brand, which no longer belongs to the designer (Christian Dior Couture holds more than 90% of the label which is designed by his former right-hand man Bill Gaytten), will also be absent (for the second season), not yet having found a manufacturer for its collection after its split with Italian company Ittierre.
As for the English designer, the new artistic director of Maison Margiela who made his comeback on 12 January in London his haute couture show that was met with great success, he won't be back on the Paris podiums this season. The Maison Margiela menswear collection, which will be presented in Paris on 23 January, was designed by an internal team, since the former Christian Dior designer only just arrived at Margiela three months ago.
Other names absent from the programme: Gosha Rubchinskiy, Muscovite designer and skating fan supported by the Comme des Garçons group, who integrated the Parisian calendar last season, and Icosphère, which made its debut in January 2014. The brand, created in 2008 by Brit Julia Smith, will not be present this season.
However, a major newcomer to be noted for menswear in January, the official entry of tailor Cifonelli, which will present its collection on Sunday the 25th, the last day of Fashion Week, at the Club de la Chasse et de la Nature.
Created in 1880 and located in Paris since 1926, the famous men's couture house launched its first ready-to-wear line last June. Specialised in made-to-measure, it already offered a small collection of ready-to-wear items. The label has now decided to take the plunge with a complete collection created with an Italian partner under the creative direction of John Vizzone.
Finally, among the younger labels, there will be French menswear label Etudes Studio and Parisian collective Andrea Crews, which officially launched on the menswear schedule last June. Still holding on are Sacai and Officine Generale, founded in 2012 by Pierre Mahéo and Umit Benan, which are part of the Paris programme for the third time.
And there will of course once more be no lack of attention paid to South Korean designer Juun. J (Jung Wook Jun), one of the most promising designers walking the runway in Paris. Between punk and classic, his looks set themselves apart by their innovative side, with unstructured pieces revisiting the traditional men's suit.
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