Hermès sends sparks into the Parisian night

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Jan 21, 2018

Hermès brought a touch of magic to Paris Fashion Week Men this Saturday evening, with an open-air show organized at the Hôtel de l'Artillerie, a former seventeenth-century Dominican convent, since transformed into a military facility. It was a setting from another time in which to present an Autumn/Winter 2018-19 collection which was timelessly elegant and yet undeniably modern. 

The 52 models dressed by creative director Véronique Nichanian walked through the building's brazier-lit cloister, while sparks rose gracefully from the fires into the night sky. 

This same lightness and grace was to be found in Hermès' collection, present in parkas or shiny quilted jackets made of waterproof fabrics as light as a veil, as well as almost immaterial alpaca jumpers, extra-fine cashmere knitwear depicting imaginary landscapes, or cotton poplin shirts. 

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This season's Hermès man has a natural elegance, his pink shirt nonchalantly poking out from under a dual-colored pullover, worn over leather trousers with dark green highlights. When the evening comes, he dares a spotted suit, worn simply with a turtleneck sweater. He exudes a measured chic with clothes in which fine fabrics and comfort always come first, as demonstrated by a pair of large woollen trousers with an elasticated waist. 

No need to show off on this runway: the luxury was hidden in the invisible details, like the leather turn-up on the bottom of a trouser leg, or in the choice of a somber but bright palette featuring highlights in cobalt, oxidized green, raspberry and pink. 

Leatherwear, at the heart of the brand since its early days as a saddlery company, took center stage more than ever, producing unexpected garments such as a hooded sweatshirt in ultra-soft lambskin, or another piece with a zip collar in goatskin suede – and not forgetting, of course, a hooded parka... in crocodile leather.