Sep 24, 2008
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Gucci goes to tropics, acid rock inspires Marni in Milan

Sep 24, 2008

MILAN, Sept 24, 2008 (AFP) - From the tropics to acid rock and retro 19th century elegance, the hectic round of Milan shows for next spring-summer on Wednesday drew on inspiration from all directions.

Marni spring-summer 2009 - Photo : Christophe Simon/AFP

At Marni long-line tunics and skirts came in elegant graphic prints, spots, stripes and checks, in electric blue, fluorescent violet, day-glo pink and yellow. A motif of giant polka dots assembled from stickers caught the mood of designer Consuelo Castiglioni's refined take on pop art. She showed skirts suits in woven black raffia, a harlequin costume in giant lozenges with green tulle, and boleros encrusted with jewels or spangled with sequins thrown over the shoulders.

Marni spring-summer 2009
Photo : Christophe Simon/AFP

Frida Giannini at Gucci sent out her models as chic guerrillas hacking their way through the jungle with dinky backpacks in a very feminine version of military dress.

Gucci spring-summer 2009
Photo : Filippo Monteforte/AFP

Mini shorts in shiny black came with safari jackets casually knotted in the back, low-slung khaki mini skirts slithered off the hips, pants were festooned with little bondage chains and a spunky dress was covered in zips. A biker's jacket in brown snakeskin had lost its sleeves.

Gucci spring-summer 2009 - Photo : Filippo Monteforte/AFP

Shirts printed with palm fronds, hibiscus or foliage, were worn with long necklaces of amethysts or agate wound round the neck. For after dusk she used the same exotic prints for fluid long dresses and voluptuous togas in turquoise, emerald and violet.

Gucci spring-summer 2009
Photo : Filippo Monteforte/AFP

Roberto Cavalli also went for flowing silk chiffon dresses so light that they lifted as the models walked down the runway. Powder blue and candyfloss pink, his sheer voiles were delicately underlined with lines of sequins. Bolder versions came in psychedelic acid yellow and green, with trailing scarves.

Roberto Cavalli spring-summer
Photo : Filippo Monteforte/AFP

Cavalli also experimented with stiff waxed fabrics, layering and folding them until they appeared matt, and special effects like entirely covering a dress with apple green pearls.

Antonio Marras, the creative director of Kenzo in Paris, took a nostalgia trip with a tribute to the French sculptress Camille Claudel. Extracts of her letters were read out on the soundtrack while the runway recreated the artist's studio with plaster statues.

Antonio Marras spring-summer 2009
Photo : Giuseppe Cacace/AFP

His deliciously retro collection involved models with little veils wearing short beige silk dresses delicately edged with lace or passementerie.

There was a plethora of frocks with bare backs, pared down waistcoats covered in multi-coloured sequins, worn over dancers' tulle ballet skirts. His little evening coats were sprinkled with metallised pearls. Shows continue on Thursday with Versace, Fendi, Max Mara and Emilio Pucci.

by Katia Dolmadjian

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