Dior Homme presents 'Post Innocence' style in first show since LVMH acquisition plans
Kris Van Assche celebrated his 10th anniversary as creative director of Dior Homme with a highly commercial yet always cool collection that trumpeted his own menswear atelier in Paris. This marked the first menswear show by the house since LVMH announced plans in April to acquire it for €6.5 billion.
Van Assche’s atelier address, 3 rue Marignan, was seen on every third look, as broad trim of fine ottoman wool jackets, the piping of coats and in his wackiest moment as ribbon fabric made into redingotes.
For spring 2018, Van Assche wants his guys sartorial with a twist. So, for elegant soirées they appear in bias-cut mini tailcoats, while for all-night bashes they don blousons covered in orchid prints or even rusty red images of hooded dudes. Street met chic throughout this show, where most of the cast wore Gothic jewelry.
The designer showed off his tailoring chops with couple of faux toile black suits where the basting stitching was done in contrasting white. All was anchored by sneakers, most memorably by boxing boots with rocker buckles.
Entitled Late Night Paris, the show invitation was even included within the collection on clubbing sweatshirts and wool tank tops - seen in a set where the runway was grass.
“That’s because it’s about the first time you stay out all night. The sky is the limit and you are ready to fall in love. When you first realize that clothes are going to make a difference - to seduce and to please. It’s Post Innocence,” said the designer, posing between half a dozen models.
“This year is the 70th anniversary of Dior, but it’s also my 10th anniversary. So, including my atelier is a little homage to my team,” smiled Van Assche, who presented his first show a decade ago, when he succeeded Hedi Slimane.
That’s a long reign in today’s high fashion. And a successful one, considering that today Dior Homme boasts some 60 freestanding boutiques, and estimated annual sales in excess of €200 million.
Presented amid considerable security inside the Grand Palais, the Arnault family was out in force. The show was the first since Dior announced a complicated financial maneuver, whereby Christian Dior Couture will be taken over by LVMH.
The fashion house’s CEO Sidney Toledano declined any comment on the operation, though he was quick to stress that the new ownership structure “will not change anything operationally within Dior.”
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