Y/Project’s game of ‘spot the flaw’
Y/Project's creative director Glenn Martens has hit pause, while not abandoning his experimental approach. The Spring/Summer 2020 collection presented on Thursday at the Alexandre III bridge in Paris is less extravagant than those of recent seasons. It had an almost classic style, featuring some of the label’s essentials which it nonetheless enhanced with the kind of little twist that makes all the difference.
Wearing tiger-patterned high heels and a pretty knitted dress or a simple sky-blue shirt dress, or an oversize trench coat with loose, sophisticated trousers, or simply clad in a shimmering satin jacket, the models stroll elegantly to the notes of Strauss’s ‘Blue Danube’ waltz.
But if you look a little more closely, you begin to feel there is something slightly amiss, something that isn’t quite right with the clothes’ construction, proportions or volumes. Each time one of the models walks down the runway, she seems to be saying “Spot the flaw!”
It is all in the details, for example in a row of off-kilter buttons, in an asymmetric shape, the finishing of a lapel, or the way a collar extends out in an unexpected way.
A denim dress is coated in brushed silver. The bottom end of a pair of denim trousers flares out into five tips like a star. The straps of a pair of sandals snake up around the legs, extending into a knitted dress in the same two-tone colours.
In another amusing twist, the lining of a pair of trousers slips out of a pocket, while a slit opens up at the top of the thigh. In another model, the trousers suddenly open up at the top of the leg with every step, first on the left side then on the right.
The music gradually seems to grind to a halt, then accelerates madly into a medley of strident sounds, a little like the shapes of these classic clothes, which transform themselves, each time pushing the boundaries of possibility a little farther.
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