×
1 017
Fashion Jobs
LEVI'S
Performance Marketing Manager
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
la Mer - Business Manager - Bentalls, Kingston - 22.5 Hours / 4 Days - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Kingston upon Thames
SHISEIDO
Ecommerce Manager - Nars, Shiseido & Drunk Elephant
Permanent · London
VANS
Account Coordinator - Dutch Speaking - Vans
Permanent · NOTTINGHAM
ESTÉE LAUDER
The Estée Lauder Companies - CRM And Loyalty Manager
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - John Lewis, Bluewater - 25.5 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Dartford
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Boots - Metro, Gateshead - 21 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Gateshead
ESTÉE LAUDER
Director, Global Social Marketing
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
Tom Ford - Business Manager - John Lewis, Milton Keynes - 37.5 Hours, Days - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Milton Keynes
SHISEIDO
Nars Account Manager, Fenwick Bond Street (37.5 Hours)
Permanent · London
LIBERTY LTD
Sales Manager
Permanent · LONDON
LIBERTY LTD
Retail Security Officer
Permanent · LONDON
VF INTERNATIONAL
Inbound Logistics Analyst - 12 Month Ftc
Permanent · COALVILLE
VF INTERNATIONAL
Warehouse Trainer
Permanent · COALVILLE
VF INTERNATIONAL
dc Team Leader
Permanent · COALVILLE
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Boots, White City London - 35 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
la Mer - Business Manager - Harvey Nichols, Birmingham - 37.5 Hours / 5 Days - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Birmingham
ESTÉE LAUDER
Regulatory Scientist - Global Ingredients Compliance
Permanent · Petersfield
SHISEIDO
Finance Analyst
Permanent · London
SHISEIDO
Area Sales & Education Manager | Central South England (Ftc)
Permanent · Reading
HUGO BOSS
Sales Manager - Hugo
Permanent · London
ASICS
Field Sales Representative
Permanent · Warrington
Published
Sep 29, 2018
Reading time
2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Vivienne Westwood’s inimitable lightness of being

Published
Sep 29, 2018

It was under a humongous lightweight paper sculpture of clouds that a posse of skateboarders opened the show at Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood, in an airy industrial space in central Paris on Saturday.


Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood - Spring/ Summer 2019 - Paris - PixelFormula


This season was inspired, the designer said in his show notes, by the 'powerful skate girls of Kabul' photographed by Jessica Fulford-Dobson, a photo series on the Afghan girls finding both joy and independence of movement in a country where bike-riding is strictly taboo for women. And, in the penultimate season before Brexit, which has clearly been the word on everyone’s lips, a firmly insouciant show that rejected the gloomy predictions of Britain's exit from the EU - which has already been taking a toll on the house - seemed a quiet protest in itself.

So it was this gentle and joyful resistance that Kronthaler channeled for spring/ summer 2019, girls hurtling past in silver jacquard, bodybuilders on scooters in pink Y-fronts and rhinestones, with the habitual Westwood disregard for sartorial gender conventions.

The billowing proportions underlined the collection’s legerity, many a mirror image of the scudding clouds overhead. Plush sky-blue cushions shrouded in diaphanous tulle encircled one model’s upper body, pale tulle sprouting at the ankles of others.


Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood - Spring/ Summer 2019 - Paris - Photo: PixelFormula



Peek-a-boo veiling was deftly transferred into artful cutaways in later looks. Disassembled dresses and shredded smocks, pulled taut with drawstrings, drew away from the body to expose nude corsets and girdles, the first range of underwear created for the house in collaboration with Kronthaler's longtime friend, lingerie and swimwear designer Yasmine Eslami. And, in floral pastels for men and women, corseted bodices boasted bucolic prints of frolicking horses.

Backstage, the designer was equally buoyant: “It was supposed to be clouds in the making. It was about lightness. It’s a summer collection. What’s more amazing in the summer than seeing the summer sky? It’s the biggest bliss I know.”

And on the diversity of the show? “We’re all different, and that’s to celebrate.”

For the house of Vivienne Westwood, Brexit is but a dark cloud on the horizon. At least for an afternoon.
 

Copyright © 2022 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.