×
181
Fashion Jobs
FREEDOM PEOPLE
PR Manager
Permanent · LONDON
FREEDOM PEOPLE
Marketing Executive
Permanent · LONDON
FOUR SEASONS RECRUITMENT
Ecommerce Executive
Permanent · LONDON
FOUR SEASONS RECRUITMENT
Operations Manager
Permanent · LONDON
HAYS RECRUIMENT
Wholesale Fashion Account Executive
Permanent · LONDON
FOUR SEASONS RECRUITMENT
Production Manager
Permanent · LONDON
FOUR SEASONS RECRUITMENT
Creative Director - Multi-Brand Concept Store
Permanent · LONDON
TOO FACED
Too Faced - Business Manager 30Hrs - John Lewis Brent Cross
Permanent · LONDON
LONE DESIGN CLUB
Graphic Design And Social Media Internship
Internship · LONDON
STUDENT AMBASSADORS
Student Ambassadors - Global
Internship · LONDON
SOCIAL MEDIA MARKETING - INSTAGRAM
Social Media Intern - Remote Role
Internship · LONDON
THORNAE- FMC
Fashion Marketing/Sales Internship Consultant
Internship · LONDON
CLAUDIE PIERLOT
Coordinateur (Rice) Retail & RH - UK & Irlande - Stage H/F
Internship · LONDON
LONDON ORGANIC PR
Social Media Intern - Twitter
Internship · LONDON
LONDON ORGANIC PR
Social Media Intern - Facebook
Internship · LONDON
PAUL SMITH
Part-Time Design Studio Intern - Menswear (June - December 2020)
Internship · LONDON
PAUL SMITH
Part-Time Design Studio Intern – Paul Smith Collection, Womenswear (June – December 2020)
Internship · LONDON
PAUL SMITH
Part-Time Design Studio Intern – ps by Paul Smith, Womenswear (June – December 2020)
Internship · LONDON
PAUL SMITH
Part-Time Print And Textile Design Studio Intern (June - December 2020)
Internship · LONDON
PAUL SMITH
Part-Time Wholesale Ecommerce Support Intern (June - December 2020)
Internship · LONDON
REJINA PYO
Accessories Design And Development Manager
Permanent · LONDON
SOPHIE ANDERSON
Internship (Marketing, PR & Admin)
Internship · LONDON

Salvatore Ferragamo: From psychoanalysis to Nancy Pelosi

Published
Feb 22, 2020
Reading time
2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

​Not many creators begin collections after reading proper works of psychoanalysis, but Paul Andrew did this summer, and the result was a powerful statement of modern fashion for the house of Salvatore Ferragamo.


Salvatore Ferragamo - Fall-Winter2020 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula


Polished, plausible, poised and a neat soupçon of the unexpected, this was exactly the sort of aesthetic that a classy Florentine brand like Ferragamo should stand for.
 
Andrew’s starting point was Christmas reading, and the thoughts of Swiss psychoanalyst Carl Jung, who hypothesized the idea that women are composed of seven key archetypes – queen, mother, lover,  sage, maiden, huntress and mystic. 

“And when I thought about that I realized that today’s women are all those different things at any given hour of the day. That’s the premise of this collection,” explained the designer backstage, standing before a look-board with black-and-white photos of icons likes Oprah Winfrey, Sharon Stone, Grace Jones and Nancy Pelosi.  
 
All the way, of course, to Wanda Ferragamo, the widow of Salvatore, “who is the reason this house is at the level it is today. While Nancy Pelosi represents brains and intelligent power to me,” smiled Andrews, as a circle of Italian editors recorded his words on their mobile phones.


Salvatore Ferragamo - Fall-Winter2020 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula

 
Staged in the Renaissance church of San Michele, the show began with a perfectly cut mannish cashmere coat, though worn with a charming golden fringed calf-length skirt; followed by an impeccably cut business suit in dark olive. Two sages setting the scene for a classy show.
 
Andrew also offered funnel-neck suede spy coats in tobacco or fiery red for mystic women; deerskin cat-suits worthy of 'The Avengers' for his huntresses; and a strict Wren’s dress with military pockets in beige calfskin -- worn by Carolyn Murphy for a goddess. One of a half-dozen veteran thirty-something models in this cleverly cast show.

Salvatore Ferragamo - Fall-Winter2020 - Womenswear - Milan - © PixelFormula

 
A shoe designer by origin, Paul had plenty to chose from in footwear – the heart of the Ferragamo business: great combat boots with contrast laces; variations on the house’s classic pumps; and an excellent new pointy boot with the house’s signature double-loop buckle.
 
The British-born designer also upcycled with wit, after finding a scrap book by Fulvia Ferragamo - Wanda’s daughter, who launched the brand’s silk scarf business - in the archives with cut-out leaves and flowers that inspired prints. He then created some posh hippie woven leather bags, using those autumnal colors and patterns; the material sourced from surplus skins he discovered in a company warehouse.
 
Jung, the son of an impoverished rural pastor, would surely have approved of this ecological frugality. And admired a great morning’s work by Andrew.

Copyright © 2020 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.