Round two a success for spring/summer 2014 trade shows
today Oct 7, 2013
At the close of the catwalks and presentations, there was strong consensus: this women’s fashion week was well-attended, according to the trade fair organizers and the showrooms. Taking place from Friday, September 27 to Monday, September 30, the second session of Fashion Week got positive marks for its spring/summer 14 edition. High attendance rates and the large number of buyers were hallmarks of the Paris session.
Among the dozen or so events, the group of Première Classe, Paris sur Mode, Don’t Believe the Hype and The Box experienced a good turnout. Organizer WSN Développement announced a total of 19,712 visitors in four days under the tents at the Tuileries. That’s an increase of 2% over September 2012, which was already up 15%. And the numbers alone don’t disclose the significant increase in international visitors (+19%), who now make up nearly two-thirds of the total in the face of a sharp decline in French attendees (-18%). WSN’s salons showed the same tendency as its fellow organizers, most of whom also experienced growth on the international front.
European countries (other than France) accounted for 50% of foreign attendance, with 6,376 visitors. Italy led the European countries in terms of numbers, with 2,142 buyers (+3%). It was followed by the UK (1,018), Germany (708), Belgium (670), Spain (572) and Switzerland (438).
With Japan as the theme, the Asian presence continued to increase. Asians represented 26% of total attendance, with 3,246 visitors, proving once again the attraction of Paris for this population. With 2,162 visitors, and in second place among foreign contingents, the Japanese buyers led the pack, increasing their numbers by 13%. As for China, its attendance increased by 60%, to 550 visitors. Korean attendance was up by 42%, to 204 buyers.
Finally, attendance from the American continent increased, with 1,136 buyers, accounting for 8% of total foreign visitors. The shows registered 1,004 buyers from the United States, now the fifth largest foreign clientele, with an increase of 59%.
Accessories brands as well as women’s ready-to-wear were generally pleased by the ever-increasing presence of Japanese, Americans, Chinese and Italians. “It was a very good show,” reported the Petite Mendigote team. “Even if the French were hardly seen, here we’re targeting the international market. And on that score, things went very well. We made up for the July show (Editor’s note: Who’s Next), which had been a bit disappointing.”
A similar remark came from Leon & Harper. On the last day, they noted with satisfaction that the high quality of this edition had given them access to new clients – and “maybe also thanks to the Don’t Believe the Hype space, which attracted a new group of buyers.”
Among the other events, MeMy Mode also produced good results. The show had moved to Pavillon Vendôme for a new and more intimate format, which pleased organizer Mariel Gamboa. “We welcomed nearly 2000 visitors, including very good buyers who appreciated the new location, and even some new ones who’d never come before. We’re refining our concept with this new location to differentiate ourselves from the other shows, because, despite what some may say, there aren’t enough of them,” she stated. “To make good and highly international fashion weeks, the range must be complete and diverse! That’s the power of Paris,” she added.
Tranoï once again attracted international buyers at its three sites. The show opened each day an hour earlier than usual, and was expecting a noticeable decrease in pre-registrations, which are now being charged for this season. Yet instead of decreasing, pre-registrations increased 8%. Attendance at the Montaigne site experienced an 8% increase according to the organizers, sparked by growing demand from Russia, the former Soviet countries and the Middle East. The Palais de la Bourse, where attendance was stable compared to the last edition, seemed to have benefited from the revised layout of a mezzanine space installed last season. The number of orders increased, according to reports from exhibitors.
Woman, an offshoot of Man, also ended its third edition on a positive note. “We had good attendance, more than last season,” estimated Antoine Floch, one of its co-founders. “Even if there were some quieter moments, normal for only a third edition, it still translated into new accounts for our brands. The good buyers from Japan and South Korea and independents from the United States came to see us,” he pointed out.
Capsule, for its part, presented its womenswear show for the last time at the Cité de la Mode et du Design on Sunday. Under pressure from exhibitors, the organizers are being forced to leave the location due to insufficient attendance levels. Still, they claimed, “The number of visitors turned out to be consistent with the last session.” The majority of buyers came from Europe, particularly from the UK and France. Capsule noted an increase in Korean and Russian visitors.
The relocation of the women’s edition of Capsule to Tapis Rouge in the 10th arrondissement is going to force the organizers to reconsider their choice of exhibitors. The future site will be more central, but it’s also smaller. “We will bring a more focused brandlist to this new location,” predicted a spokesperson for the New York show. International exhibitors have already indicated their enthusiasm about the future address of Capsule Femme.
By Anaïs Lerévérend and Florent Gilles.
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