Pitti Uomo presents new vision of men's formal wear with runway show

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Jan 8, 2020

Following the runway show dedicated to outerwear that it organised last June, Pitti Uomo has now taken aim at formal wear. How does one wear a suit today? How can menswear be made more contemporary? What of the traditional codes of the menswear wardrobe? The Florentine trade fair's organisers looked to respond to these questions and more this season, with a runway show that took place right in the heart of the action. 

Held in the open air, on the Fortezza da Basso's main forecourt, the runway show, entitled "Otherwise Formal: Formal / A question of quality," livened up proceedings at Pitti Uomo on Wednesday, bringing clothes that would usually have just been hanging, inanimate, in booths on the show floor, to life. The show therefore not only gave a boost to the brands that participated, but also offered a new – and much-appreciated – experience to the retailers and distributors in attendance.

The show consisted of 25 looks made up of clothes and accessories picked from the Autumn/Winter 2020-21 collections of some 30 exhibitors, including Lardini, Ahirain, Raeburn, Pierre-Louis Mascia, Drumohr, Altea, Tombolini Running, Oliver Spencer and Roberto Collina.

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On the catwalk, a gardener carrying large buckets was transformed into a gentleman with a tweed coat and jacket combo complemented by double-layered shirts with checks and stripes. Elsewhere, a fleece gilet, a high-tech satchel and a hat with ear flaps effectively elevated a classic shirt-and-tie look, while a long black cashmere coat belted at the waist was worn over one model's bare chest, giving it a sensual twist. 

An argyle sweater was paired with a pair of creased flannel trousers, a camel duffle coat with only a pair of knee-high socks. Sleeve garters were also updated, serving to secure not only the sleeves of shirts, but also those of an overcoat, an inventive way of reimagining of a vintage accessory.