Paris haute couture rebounds with a 29-collection July season, though without any Russians

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jun 1, 2022

Haute couture in Paris this July will feature collections by 29 houses as the season bounces back from the pandemic, according to the provisional calendar just released on Wednesday afternoon.

 
However, the four-day season will be devoid of several prominent houses, including two Russian couturiers who have shown in Paris for the past several years – Ulyana Sergeenko and Yanina Couture.
 
That said, powerhouses like Christian Dior, Chanel, Elie Saab, Giorgio Armani Privé, Balenciaga and Fendi Couture will all stage live shows in next month’s season, which debuts on Monday, July 4 and ends Thursday evening, July 7, according to the schedule released by the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, French high-fashion’s governing body.

Only Paris boasts two annual seasons of haute couture, the true laboratory of the industry and the highest expression of fashion on the planet. A rarefied world of barely 2,000 clients – movie stars, princesses and billionaire’s wives – which each January and July takes over the French capital, clogging the streets with chauffeured limousines and booking out all the best restaurants.
 
By far the biggest debut will be by Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing at Jean Paul Gaultier, the third guest designer invited in by Jean-Paul to stage a guest collection for the quirky French modernist marque. While Spanish couture star Juana Martin has won the honor of makng her first appearance on the official calendar.

 
The season kicks off on Monday morning with Schiaparelli, which American couturier Daniel Roseberry has made into one of the hottest luxury brands in fashion, and finishes on Thursday evening with veteran French couturier Adeline André.
 
All told there will be 29 brands, and 27 shows. Only Christophe Josse and Maison Rabih Kayroux will not stage physical shows, and just appointments by rendezvous.
 
Several other brands are sitting out the season, including happening young star Charles de Vilmorin and French rock glamour marque Azzaro.

In other news, Jacquemus, the Instagram-driven hipster French house will stage its next show in Arles on June 27, the day after the six-day Paris menswear season ends. Furthermore, Paco Rabanne, Patou and the house of Alaïa will present their women’s ready-to-wear collections on Sunday, July 3, at 4:30 PM, 6 PM and 8 PM CET respectively.

All told, after several years of cancelled shows and largely digital seasons due to the pandemic, Paris couture suddenly looks in final fettle.