Paris fêtes assured collections by Dries Van Noten, Rochas, Guy Laroche
The womenswear collections shown in Paris are never commonplace, as was demonstrated on Wednesday by, among others, Dries Van Noten’s nocturnal flamboyance, Rochas’s relaxed chic, and Guy Laroche’s musings about sustainable fashion.
Dries Van Noten showed a stunning Fall/Winter 2020-21 collection, in which colours, materials and prints collided powerfully, creating a uniquely beautiful ensemble. Van Noten chose to celebrate night life, hovering between extravagance and glamour, from the unforgettable parties of 1930s Hollywood to the smoky nights of 1970s London clubs.
He dipped his collection in a twilit nocturnal palette veering from opaque to glittering hues: maroon, bright red, acid green, intense ochre, lapis lazuli blue, violet, lilac, orange, olive green, emerald and gunmetal grey. Above all, he blended styles with gusto.
Tartan woollen jackets and overcoats, as well as check trousers and shirts, blend with glam items like draped velvet dresses, gowns decorated with bucolic Hawaii-style floral prints, and skirts and tops in ruby-red ostrich feathers.
Biker-style leather trousers and jackets are paired off with tops featuring oversize floral prints or a python-skin skirt. Shearling coats are dyed in rust or violet tones. Devoré velvet combines with latex, raw denim, satin and even silk. A brocaded dress glimmers in the night.
For his last season at Rochas, Alessandro Dell'Acqua designed a nonchalant, effortlessly chic collection. Clad in woollen tights and perched on vertiginous velvet platform sandals, the Rochas girls wore long, flowing silk dresses in warm colours, from pink to violet, orange, liquorice and rust, scattered with crystals and gems.
They were equally at ease in men's suits in grey or sky blue, and in dresses glittering with shaggy golden thread or embroidered with a wealth of decorations. The collection alternates between lavish outfits with oversize furs and cascading gems, and more minimalistic ensembles in strictly tonal looks.
One of them for example combines two orange overcoats, worn one over the other, with a handbag in the same colour. Elsewhere, the trousers, top, turtleneck sweater and jacket are all in the same electric blue. For the evening, the Rochas girls opt for clothes enhanced by long black and silver fringes.
Guy Laroche didn't stage a catwalk show, but presented an unusual installation. The label’s creative director, Richard René, unearthed 12 vintage Guy Laroche items, which he bought and photographed in actual size.
From this starting point, he designed 12 looks made using only the raw materials available in-house at the label. A black suit’s trousers take on a contemporary twist with long lateral slits at knee height. Strips of black vinyl are rolled around a series of printed dresses, adding a touch of character.
Four other items have been created in beige wool and silk, symbolising a “renaissance” and the theme of upcycling. As Guy Laroche indicated in its collection statement, 39 million tons of clothes worldwide were thrown away in 2019.
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