Miu Miu with a Moroccan twist
Self-editing, a talent few designers are blessed with, which is why they employ stylists to help hone their visions, was the key to the latest Miu Miu collection staged Tuesday, the final day of Paris Fashion Week.
For, besides being a great designer, Miuccia Prada is possibly the best editor of her own ideas in fashion. That much was clear in this contemporary statement from Miu Miu, on how to dress with classic style without looking boring.
Most of the actual selection of clothes were rather traditional Miu Miu, but all presented in a novel ensemble. What the French call le bon dosage.
Her key choice of material was military khaki, seen in the opening looks of flat front wide-legged pants, and colonial shorts cut off at the knee, with the snags of the interior lining visible.
There appeared to be a logo visible in every look; the chest of button-down preppy shirts; the tongues of deliberately frayed white running sneakers; on buckles of kitten heel shoes or the bands of underwear peeking out above pleated skirts. Mannish elements throughout the show, with suede college bombers; V-neck campus cashmere sweaters and nerdy gray socks.
However, the Miu Miu gal will always be the naughtier younger sister of the Prada princess. And not afraid to flaunt a good figure while she’s got one. So, for next spring she will step out in white shirts or Aran cable sweaters cut horizontally in half, the better to show off her abdomen; and minis that barely covered the crotch.
Like in her Prada collection in Milan, made with cohort Raf Simons, she showed faded leather looks – most memorably the scrunched up black leather blazers or worn rawhide western jackets, paired with low-waist pleated skirts.
In a novel move, Miuccia worked with Moroccan artist Meriem Bennani, presenting a video projected in a series of binocular shaped screens, on the side of the circular catwalk inside the modernist Palais d’Iena in Paris' 16th arrondissement. As if the audience was someone spying on Bennani’s mini fashion flick. Images of this work even appeared on Miu Miu’s online platform.
At one stage, the ladylike characters discuss how to get a bottom lift.
“So why do they get their ass done?” one enquires. “They take fat from the thighs and inject it in the butt,” her friend replies. “Ok, so it’s halal!” adds a third to much laughter.
Though, quite frankly, it was hard to understand the connection between the video and the collection. Or, indeed, the point of the link-up by Miuccia, who has long been on record as distaining other designers' never-ending partnerships with fine artists.
Last week in Milan, a masked Signora Prada declined to discuss her collection with editors, pleading fear of Covid. This time she didn’t even come out from the backstage, highly unusual for such a normally self-confident individual.
All told, an inventive collection of artful rearrangement, ideal for sexy intellectuals. Even if it felt like a designer playing far too far within her own game. Definitely not a vintage show.
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