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Nicola Mira
Feb 5, 2019
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Milan Fashion Week boosts support for emerging designers

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Feb 5, 2019

Make room for the young generation: The Milan women’s fashion week kicking off on Feb. 19 will strongly emphasise new design talent, featured both on the catwalk show calendar and in a number of other dedicated events and initiatives. As a mark of the fashion week’s significant engagement in favour of youth, the gala evening at the event's end on Feb. 25 will be entirely dedicated to emerging designers.

Japanese label Chika Kisada will return to Milan’s catwalks in February, backed by the Italian Fashion Chamber - © PixelFormula

“This season, the calendar will feature a wealth of new names, both from Italy and abroad. Young designers will be strongly supported,” said Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI), the National Chamber for Italian Fashion. CNMI, the leading Italian industry association, traditionally makes it possible for a selection of emerging labels to show during the fashion week. This season, additional support is provided by CNMI Fashion Trust, a non-profit organisation run by CNMI and financed by a pool of philanthropists and entrepreneurs, that was set up last summer to support the most promising Italian design talents via a mentorship programme.

CNMI Fashion Trust will back the show by Act n°1, the label by Luca Lin and Galib Gassanoff - winners of the Who is on Next? 2017 design prize - which premièred on the Milanese catwalks last September, as well as the debut show on the Milan calendar by Marco Rambaldi, on Tuesday Feb. 21. Bologna-born Rambaldi, 28, was talent-spotted by CNMI four years ago when he launched his women’s ready-to-wear label, and won the Next Generation 2014 design competition organised by CNMI.

The other label which will debut on the fashion week’s catwalks thanks to CNMI’s support is Marios, founded in 2002 by Cyprus-born designer Mayo Loizou and his Polish counterpart Leszek Chmielewski. The womenswear label, which has always enjoyed strong links with the art world, isn’t a complete rookie, but it is currently being relaunched after the arrival of a new partner.

CNMI is also promoting the shows by Japanese label Chika Kisada and Milanese label Ultràchic, as well as the presentations by Gilberto Calzolari, winner of the Franca Sozzani emerging talent prize at the Green Carpet Fashion Awards 2018 for eco-sustainable fashion, and by Tiziano Guardini, winner of the prize's 2017 edition.

Young Marco Rambaldi will stage his maiden show in Milan in February- marco-rambaldi-f3dl.squarespace.com

And this is not all. The Milanese event will place an extra emphasis on other initiatives reserved to emerging talents through the Fashion Hub, which will run from Feb. 20-24 and is open to the general public too (booking is necessary). The hub’s Spazio Cavallerizze venue will host several shows, a series of conferences and the eighth edition of the Fashion Hub Market, which allows rookie labels to showcase their collections. For February, the roster includes 12 names: 16R Firenze, Andrea Mondin, Angelia Ami, Ara Lumiere, Chakshyn, Dhruv Kapoor, Federico Cina, Kartikeya, Moon Choi, Moon J, Retropose and Rowen Rose.
“Our Fashion Trust is organising a special day to promote these young designers, giving a chance to both the general public and buyers to place orders. There will also be a focus on creativity coming from China and Hungary, and the three winners of the Woolmark Prize 2018-19, who will have been revealed in London on February 16, will attend too,” said Capasa.  
Last September, CNMI signed a deal with the Hungarian Fashion & Design Agency, enabling eight Hungarian labels to present their work at the Fashion Hub during the Milan Fashion Week. They are Abodi, Artista, Celeni, Cukovy, Elysian, Je Suis Belle, Tomcsányi and Zsigmond Dora Menswear.

Also, as part of the Xi’An International Fashion Town project in collaboration with the Chinese city of Xi’An, seven emerging designers from the Asian region will showcase their creations at the Fashion Hub: Scale 79 Studio, Mukzin, Vmajor, Zynggati, Lanneret, Alexstorm and F/FFFFFF - the latter two showing jointly.

Another important event, as the Fashion Hub will draw to a close on Feb. 24, is the award ceremony for the special prize given to one of the Fashion Hub Market’s emerging labels by the Italian Chamber of Fashion Buyers.

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