Menswear in Milan: cool and comfortable fashion for Millenials
Once again Milan showed it was the coolest destination on the fashion calendar with its spectacular runway shows and endless parties. Despite the eleven names missing from the program this season, Milan Men’s Fashion Week finished on Tuesday, June 21 with a Giorgio Armani catwalk, proving that the event is still worthy of quite some attention.
"A number of buyers returned to Milan this season, foreigners in particular, increased in number by more than 20%," exclaimed the president of the Italy's fashion council, Carlo Capassa.
Shows and presentations were varied, highlighting commercial men's fashion as well as the quality and good taste that is, made in Italy.
There was the ultra-sporty Versace, Prada's trekker-adventurer, the Ferragamo explorer, the basketballer-rapper on show at Philipp Plein, Moncler Gamme Bleu's boy scouts and the warrior athletes at Dirk Bikkembergs who paraded on the edge of a swimming pool, the same seen at Fendi too...
Designers emphasised comfort with sportswear accents, which felt directed at younger men, those much talked about Millenials.
There was also a touch of the creative poet at Gucci and the elegant crooner at Dolce & Gabbana. The traditional clothing was indeed classic, but still felt more relaxed in construction.
The timeless collection, with its muted tones (navy, khaki, black, burgundy, rust, Gallic blue and sage green) had been purposefully designed for functionality and ease of wear.
Trousers were more fluid and wide. They draped, much like the blazers and tunics too, and felt similar to the djellabas caftans paraded at Dolce & Gabbana. Shorts were baggy and cut in reworked materials, such as leather or super light technical nylon, which stood out among the other pieces.
For next summer's wardrobe, the ultra-light jacket in weather resistant, parachute silk fabric is a must, as well as biker trousers or ski pants in technical nylon.
On to accessories, and men will be allowed to wear comfortable sandals with socks. Socks are officially the chic accessory for summer 2017, as are legging shorts and jogger pants.
In the same relaxed vibe, button-up shirts are giving way to polos or oversize t-shirts, and ultralight mesh knits were everywhere.
Giant pockets will come stuck on the outside of jackets and trousers, while modernised backpacks or mini-bags will dangle by a cord or come hooked directly onto clothing; allowing the globe-trotting man to travel freely, wearing all the necessary gadgets and technological without contraint.
The Marni collection distinguished itself in functionality. Clothing was deconstructed such as the shirt, pieced together in three stages, for ventilation, thanks to velcro strips.
Overall, the man of tomorrow remains focused on practical and simple clothing, as seen in the number of monochrome outfits, brightened up this season by stripes and big panels, novelty prints and embellishments.
Looks will be completed by suspenders, which are making a grand return, or a finely knotted tie worn around the neck like a scarf.
Not forgetting pins and other metallic jewellery worn as piercings in the lips, the nose and in ears, crafting a warrior look.
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