×
2 077
Fashion Jobs
ESTÉE LAUDER
Origins - Online Trading Manager - Brand Site
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
Multi Brand - Multi Brand Business Manager - House of Fraser, Rushden Lakes - 37.5 Hours - Full-Time - Permanent
Permanent · Rushden
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Fenwick, Newcastle - 36 Hours - Full Time - Permanent
Permanent · Newcastle upon Tyne
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Leeds, Trinity - Boots - 26 Hours - Part-Time, Permanent
Permanent · Leeds
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Halifax, Harveys - 15 Hours - Part-Time, Permanent
Permanent · Halifax
ESTÉE LAUDER
Aveda - Account Manager - House of Fraser-White City, London - 30 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · London
FOREO
E-Key Account Manager
Permanent · London
FOREO
Marketing Manager
Permanent · London
VF INTERNATIONAL
Warehouse Trainer And Instructor
Permanent · COALVILLE
OUTSIDE THE BOX RECRUITMENT
Account Manager Kidswear
Permanent · LONDON
THE KOOPLES
Regional Manager London
Permanent · LONDON
OUTSIDE THE BOX RECRUITMENT
Digital Marketing And e Commerce Manager
Permanent · LONDON
ESTÉE LAUDER
Estee Lauder - Consumer Campaign Email Marketing Executive
Permanent · London
VF INTERNATIONAL
Warehouse Area Manager
Permanent · COALVILLE
NEW BALANCE
Marketing Director, Emea
Permanent · Warrington
EASTPAK
Credit Controller - French Speaking - Eastpak
Permanent · CALVERTON
THE NORTH FACE
Credit Controller - German Speaking - The North Face
Permanent · CALVERTON
CONFIDENTIAL
Regional Manager London
Permanent · LONDON
ESTÉE LAUDER
la Mer - Business Manager - John Lewis, Cribbs Causeway - 37.5 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Bristol
VF INTERNATIONAL
dc Inventory Control Supervisor
Permanent · COALVILLE
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Boots, Enniskillen - 10 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Enniskillen
SHISEIDO
Account Manager Bareminerals - House of Fraser, Cheltenham
Permanent · Cheltenham
Advertisements
Published
Sep 26, 2020
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Marni: Gathered narratives from around the globe

Published
Sep 26, 2020

Marni went on fashion’s biggest long-distance video adventure this season, with a live online show on Friday afternoon that rambled around eight cities and four continents.


Marni - Spring/Summer 2021 - Womenswear


Named Marnifesto, it consisted of sixteen mini-screen Zoom-style videos shot with handheld cameras, mobiles and stationary positions. From the banks of the Lake St Clair in Detroit to parks in London; from downtown New York lofts to back streets in Dakar, all the way to suburban train stations near Milan.
 
Masked youths in menswear clambered up ramps in London parks, dressed like some County Lines gang, in oversized hoodies with giant paint-splattered lettering. What one could glimpse looked very clever – like the patchwork wrap coat cut in vertical shards seen on a raven-haired lass getting a lift in a mini-auto in Milan.  

There were also glimpses and snatches of cheesecloth or toile stapled together in instinctive and raw shapes. Plus, multiple leather coats embossed with poetry, or jackets where printed words became like camouflage or flowers.
 
Since September 11, Marni began sending the 48 looks out to models, artists and friends to wear in this "show," fitting them online, but largely letting the cast choose their own setting and mood.
 
The only trouble was that it was petty darned hard to see many actual clothes, the images were small and the angles so obtuse. One had a better vision of the owner’s cats or a wee terrier than the clobber. And one heard a lot of wind noise too.
 
Marni’s designer Francesco Risso and partner Lawrence Steel spent the lockdown working in their apartment near Parco Sempione in Milan. 
 
"It was great in beginning but after a few weeks really oppressive. This feeling of a being in deserted city. That energy was drowning us in negativity," conceded Risso, in a pre-show Zoom with FashioNetwork.com.
 
As a result, instinctively his feelings and emotions grew more in the direction of Marni’s DNA, which is tactile, sensorial and emotional. And, in their separate spaces in confinement his team began making things from curtains and dyeing material in bathtubs. That and writing love letters to each other and to artists that collaborate with Marni.

"So when we went back to office and were all together there was so much energy and skills to share and that was really beautiful," he recalls of the reunion in May.
 
"This collection is almost hard to talk about in terms of clothes. It’s not about making a statement, more a story of people and dialogue," he stressed.

Marni's Marnifesto

 
In the end, the conversations overtook the clothes. What was left were touching speeches by multiple young artists but little real insight into fashion. Impossible to appreciate on a phone, no wonder Risso watched it on a big screen in a cinema with his team.
 
When he is in the creative zone, Francesco Risso is one of the half-dozen most original designers operating in fashion today. It was just that this Marnifesto left viewers with little evidence of that fact.
 
"This will evolve during the live show, as we really don’t know what the fuck is going happen. I wanted gathered narratives to express the multifaceted canvas that is Marni," said Risso, who certainly produced the narratives but maybe not that much of a fashion canvas.

Copyright © 2021 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.