×
4 315
Fashion Jobs
L'OREAL GROUP
Business Category Manager
Permanent · London
L'OREAL GROUP
Lancôme Deputy Business Manager, 1.0, John Lewis, Oxford Street (Ftc)
Permanent · London
L'OREAL GROUP
Senior Visual Merchandising Manager - l'Oreal Paris - Cpd
Permanent · London
L'OREAL GROUP
Advocacy Brand Manager - Cpd
Permanent · London
L'OREAL GROUP
Warehouse Team Leader - am / pm
Permanent · Manchester
L'OREAL GROUP
Corporate Finance Director (Contract)
Permanent · London
L'OREAL GROUP
Senior Brand Manager – Ldb
Permanent · London
TK MAXX
Loss Prevention Officer (Door Marshall) - Ayr - Full-Time/Permanent
Permanent · Ayr
HOMESENSE
Loss Prevention Officer - Full Time 37.5 Hours - Homesense Watford
Permanent · Grand Londres
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH STORES
Abercrombie & Fitch - Graduate Manager in Training, Ashford Designer Outlet
Permanent · Ashford
STELLA MCCARTNEY
Junior Art Director
Permanent · LONDON
MULBERRY
Global vm Manager
Permanent · LONDON
SELFRIDGES
Pat Mcgrath Business Manager
Permanent · MANCHESTER
JIGSAW
Financial Controller
Permanent · LONDON
NEW LOOK
CRM Executive
Permanent ·
PRIMARK
Project Manager
Permanent · READING
SUPERDRY
Accounts Payable Assistant
Permanent · CHELTENHAM
HOLLISTER CO. STORES
Hollister CO. - Graduate Manager in Training, Trinity Leeds
Permanent · Leeds
ESTÉE LAUDER
la Mer - Business Manager - John Lewis - 37.5 Hours
Permanent · Oxford
AESOP
Art Director
Permanent · London
AESOP
Retail Consultant | Aesop Bath, Somerset | Part Time
Permanent · Bath
TJX EUROPE
Senior Employment Lawyer
Permanent · Watford
Published
Mar 4, 2022
Reading time
2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Loewe: Latex love

Published
Mar 4, 2022

Contrasts and contradictions; incongruities and juxtapositions in a brilliant show and riveting collection for the house of Loewe by Jonathan Anderson, presented Friday morning, the mid-point of Paris Fashion Week.


Loewe Fall/ Winter 2022


 
A collection of eras, ideas and above all materials - like latex, shearling and 3D printing clashed and coalesced. Where the show invitation was an 80-square-centimeter latex square, which some editors even wore as scarves into the show.
 
Staged in a sprawling indoor tennis club, revamped  as an all-brown box, “like peat, like digging in one of Seamus Heaney’s poems,” explained the Anderson of his fellow Northern Irishman, the Nobel Prize winning poet.

“I wanted the idea of the industrial revolution – two things meeting, for I see this is as a strip backed collection,” added Jonathan.
 
He opened with a series of artily elegant leather dresses made from wetting the calfskin and sculpting it around the torso. A great opening series, complimented by the footwear, which looked more like handbags than shoes. His dresses gradually turned into auto-shaped frocks, quirky conceptual fashion at its best, all the way to the tinted latex tops and soft, cuddly shearling bags.


Loewe Fall/ Winter 2022


 
For cocktail hour Anderson went into overdrive with pinto-hued columns finished with mini cups and baubles. As Jonathan’s Marie Antoinette champagne glass shaped cups used as bras and protrusions from body-con cocktails.  
 
“Pushing a silhouette to where it is something that is nonsensical and irrational. Pushing things together so they become pleasingly disturbing,” explained Anderson.
 
Gradually adding techy elements to the show, like 3D prints, juxtaposed to the set, where stood three truck-sized pumpkins by Anthea Hamilton, the Turner Prize-shortlisted artist. With whom Loewe has collaborated, the Spanish label providing the leather with which she made her uber vegetables.
 
“I am obsessed with how a balloon creates tension as it can pop, and never lasts forever. An aerodynamic shape with a pressure pot. Something trapped underneath,” opined the designer, in a visual comment on our bizarre times. Before adding: “Looking at tension and where we are sexually in these days.”
 
Draping and construction that echoed shapes from American sculptor Lynda Benglis, famed for her latex sculptures, and Merit Oppenheimer, noted for her idea of a fur cup.


Loewe Fall/ Winter 2022


 
Though the overriding memory of this collection will be the aerodynamic shoes and the latex dresses, one finished with two long gloved arms; or a pink latex cocktail with red bee-stung lip bustier top. Outlandish, yet glorious. 
 
“For me, there is something about latex, either you reject it or you sensationalize it. A controversial fabric used for health service and also sexually. Latex is so pure, yet the way you build a latex garment is incredibly technical,” insisted Anderson, as over 30 editors strained to record his words on their mobile phones. 
 
Since Karl Lagerfeld’s parting, no designer attracts a larger media audience after a show. Anderson’s is the single most fertile imagination in Paris fashion today.
 
 

Copyright © 2023 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.