Key Spring/Summer 2018 trends from the Milan Fashion Week
The women's ready-to-wear collections for the Spring/Summer 2018, on show in Milan from 20th to 25th September, featured five main trends, marking the return to a strikingly feminine style. At once romantic, with timeless shirt-dresses overflowing with lace and flowers, luminous in its glittering effects, and sensual for its emphasis on lingerie and transparencies, with tulle as its signature fabric. And sexy too: stockings are making a come-back and, once again, great attention was paid to the shoulders.
1. The shirt-dress
This classic item will be a must in our wardrobes and suitcases next summer. The simplest of outfits, it was reinterpreted with gusto by many designers, some of whom even picked it as the thread running through their entire collection. Marco De Vincenzo's take was short and colourful, while Ujoh and Jil Sander went for length and generous proportions. Brognano styled it as a maxi evening dress, glamorised with frills on the back, Fausto Puglisi featured it in lace and Atsushi Nakashima went for a revamped office-blouse style.
2. Stockings are back
Legs were in the limelight like never before at the latest Milan Fashion Week – nicely attired, of course. Indeed, socks and tights will be an indispensable feature of next summer's outfits, and sandals worn barefoot will not be tolerated. The classic patterned socks, short and extra-short, were joined by knee-high long socks, as featured by Dolce & Gabbana, Prada, Scognamiglio and Antonio Marras.
Instead of socks, we may opt for tights or leggings in striking prints and motifs, in tone-on-tone combination with the rest of the outfit, or even, as shown by Versace, Dolce & Gabbana and Fendi, for stockings, going for an uber-chic effect. Missoni too confirmed the return of sexy stockings, leaving the top of the thighs bare, and worn strictly under long, see-through dresses.
After being featured by Maria Grazia Chiuri in Dior's long transparent dresses last year, tulle took over a fair number of collections. It cropped up in a spate of classic tutus, for example Moschino's playful ones in flashy colours like turquoise, or in a maxi version as seen at Fausto Puglisi and Brognano. The latter went as far as to envelop the torso and shoulders in a bubbling tulle cocoon. It was also featured as a sheer veil, in tops or tunics, such as the delicate mauve and red models presented by Cristiano Burani, almost akin to coloured filters.
4. Detachable sleeves
Asymmetric tops and dresses baring one shoulder were ubiquitous, for an intriguing, gypsy-style and highly feminine feel. Also, the straps in next summer's dresses will systematically slip down the arms, giving the whole outfit a relaxed vibe. In general, designers continued to focus on the shoulders, covering or baring them with malicious pleasure and an array of tricks. One of next summer's stand-outs will be the knitwear (or shirt, as seen at Prada) and bustier - or strap dress -combination. Very chic. There will also be an invasion of detachable sleeves, fitted on like gloves or tied with a ribbon, leaving the shoulders bare (Piccione.piccione, Ssheena, Vivetta, Alberto Zambelli).
5. The colour green
The collections seen in Milan dipped into the entire colour spectrum, from pastel, slightly faded hues, to bright, intense colours, as well as the classic black and white. Of all the colours in this rainbow, one was remarkably prevalent: green. The Milan Fashion Week was steeped in an ecological mood and advocated sustainable fashion, so each collection made sure to feature a green look. In military-style leather at Trussardi, in mint green at Blumarine, in a patchwork of verdant prints at Etro, in shimmering aquamarine at Armani, etc.
Designers were also strongly inspired by garden themes, combining the predominant ecological vein with a return to a very romantic mood. Alongside pinafore dresses, still highly popular, flowers literally invaded the catwalks, with Moschino going as far as morphing its models into flower bouquets!
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