×
3 836
Fashion Jobs
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH CO.
Asset Protection Investigator
Permanent · London
ABERCROMBIE AND FITCH CO.
Asset Protection Agent
Permanent · London
NGG
Revenue Operations Manager
Permanent · LONDON
DEBENHAMS
Key Account Manager
Permanent · LONDON
BOOHOO
SEO Assistant & Copywriter
Permanent · MANCHESTER
EVERLAST GYMS
General Assistant - Everlast Fitness
Permanent · INVERNESS
FRASERS GROUP
General Kitchen Manager
Permanent · SHIREBROOK
URBN
Free People Keyholder - Duke of York, London (16hrs)
Permanent · LONDON
URBN
Free People Keyholder - Duke of York, London (32hrs)
Permanent · LONDON
HARVEY NICHOLS KNIGHTSBRIDGE
Security Officer
Permanent · LONDON
AESOP
Retail Consultant | Aesop Harrods Counter London | Full Time
Permanent · London
VF INTERNATIONAL
Credit Controller - German Speaking
Permanent · CALVERTON
NEW BALANCE
Associate Trade Marketing Manager, Lifestyle
Permanent · Warrington
MATCHES FASHION
Accounts Payable Assistant
Permanent · LONDON
I SAW IT FIRST
Head of Creative - i Saw IT First & Missguided
Permanent · STRETFORD
HOUSE OF FRASER
Loss Prevention Supervisor - House of Fraser
Permanent · DARTFORD
EVERLAST GYMS
General Manager - Everlast Gyms
Permanent · SELBY
MULBERRY
Customs Entry Coordinator
Permanent · SHEPTON MALLET
SELFRIDGES
Finance Manager - Stock
Permanent · LONDON
NEXT
Sales Manager - Stockton Teesside Retail Park
Permanent · THORNABY
NEXT
Sales Coordinator - Blackburn The Mall
Permanent · BLACKBURN
NEXT
Stock Coordinator - Merthyr Tydfil
Permanent · MERTHYR TYDFIL
Ads
Published
Jan 16, 2023
Reading time
2 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

J. W. Anderson: Pert, perverse and yet polished

Published
Jan 16, 2023

Got to hand it to Jonathan Anderson, this was the most interesting show in Milan menswear this season. Not maybe the best collection, or best clothes, but the most stimulating intellectual exercise.
 
From the quirky telephone-chip-in-matt-back paper invites or the naughty medieval booties, to the micro-shorts meets underwear that were real stars of this show.


Jw Anderson - Fall-Winter2023 - 2024 - Menswear - Italie - Milan - © ImaxTree


“It’s about reduction, and the idea of ownership. About creating a wardrobe, where gender became part of the zeitgeist, part of where we have to go as a society,” explained Anderson, in his backstage inside a former factory on Via Tortona, the south Milan street that is the central spine of modern menswear.
 
His first two models marching in wee pairs of knickers, S&M Seventh Seal booties and not much else. Followed by three handsome dudes – a black guy in black wool dress, and two white guys in white sheathes; all of them clutching pillows, strawberries stencilled on thighs and arms. 

His opening gallants in shorts and boots carrying two big bolts of fabric, “to express the idea of starting afresh.”
 
In between a series of brilliant coats, their waistline cut below the crotch. Thrilling tailoring in battleship grey fine wool or battered waxy leather. He went back to the ruffle shorts of his earliest seasons. 
 
“I have never gone back, but I felt I had to. A raw state of mind, working with tension where a bag becomes a shoe or shoe becomes a bag. The idea that you are committed to something,” explained Anderson, referencing zippered boots with lots of S&M locks. 


Jw Anderson - Fall-Winter2023 - 2024 - Menswear - Italie - Milan - © ImaxTree


“I like this idea of looking at subversion. Of looking at great masters like Vivienne Westwood. In a weird way when I was at university that was the go-to. We should not be scared by perversion,” he philosophised. After presenting the coat of the season, the drop-waisted parka duffle coat, a martyrdom image every Generation kid will dream owning.
 
In an era, where LGBTQ+ rights are under intense attack from anti-woke reactionaries on social media, right tabloids and soi-disant learned dailies, Anderson’s position was progressive.
 
“It is about not shaming, and instead about owning things. And in fashion I think we are too scared of owning things. I love menswear because it’s about a constructive dialogue, and it’s about contradicting myself. Fashion is a mirror and that’s what it should be,” added Anderson, in his time-honoured habit of not quite looking editors directly in the eye.
 
In corporate news, Jonathan confirmed the brand wants to stay in Milan, after embracing Carlo Capasa, president of the Camera della Moda, who generously invited Anderson on to the official show calendar.
 

Copyright © 2023 FashionNetwork.com All rights reserved.