Isabel Marant goes neo-classical

By

Dominique Muret

Published
Feb 28, 2020

Isabel Marant gave her models a confident self-assurance with strong silhouettes cut in beautiful fabrics for Fall/Winter 2020-21. As explained by the designer backstage, "this is my neo-classical, structured collection, with real well-made clothes. There's a touch of luxury but it's all very wearable and accessible."
 

Hooded ecru capes were worn like djellabas, while neutral-coloured shearling was used in comfortable furs, as well as in sleeveless coats and jackets which added a Berber feel to proceedings. This effortless style was further emphasised by the knitwear, which included comfy jumpers and knitted dresses with puff sleeves slits up the front.

This season's Isabel Marant woman walked nonchalantly in her thigh-high leather boots, her hands resting in her pockets, her waist cinched by dresses, skirts or trousers clasped in large belts, her shoulders consistently accentuated. This silhouette inevitably evoked the 1980s, especially with its squared shoulders, which were sometimes covered with shoulder pads with an intergalactic edge. 

"I like women's legs and shoulders and I like to bulk them up. It's like injecting them with strength. These women are urban warriors," explained Marant. Only, instead of armour, her warriors donned padded jackets with printed patterns, men's suits in grey flannel and draped leather dresses. 

This co-ed show also featured the designer's fifth menswear collection. Here the silhouette was more classic and toned-down, with models pairing creased trousers with cable-knit jumpers or putty-coloured overcoats, and pea jackets with jeans.