Giorgio Armani’s tailoring tutorial
They often call Giorgio Armani the greatest tailor in Italy, and the Monday show of his signature menswear collection certainly felt like a tutorial in tailoring.
Armani’s suit silhouette has gone through many changes – beginning life in the 70s as the ultimate golden age of Hollywood power suit; before he ripped up all the rules and took out all stuffing in 1990s by inventing the soft de-constructed suit. Today, he was back in iconoclastic form. For spring, he unveiled a series of elegant interpretations, featuring his new longer three or four-button jacket, paired with a sculpted pants cut just above the anklebone. By tweaking his silhouette the whole effect was a half-decade younger than recent collections.
This came in the a rich series colors and fabrics; from silver silk check to faded grey linen. For sportier moments, Armani offered snug blousons with high funnel collars. And, the designer also introduced fine double-breasted topcoats in linen: in his non-color palette of putty, concrete and mud.
No wonder he called the collection: Made in Armani.
Entering the show, scores of pop fans went into a screaming frenzy at the arrival of Liam Payne from the group One Direction and Italian singer-songwriter Eros Ramazzotti.
Though, like lots of Italian designers, Armani’s target market are not really rock stars but rather Internet and high-tech entrepreneurs, where the very informality of their office life has led to far more casual dress. There was barely a tie on this catwalk, there are very few in Silicon Valley either. Though the suits were so well cut they added the authority that today’s successful men seek.
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