PARIS, March 7, 2009 (AFP) - Sex and money are what makes the world go round, according to Jean Paul Gaultier, who recreated the cosy warmth of a bordello for his collection for next autumn-winter.

Heavy crimson velvet drapes and comfy Chesterfield sofas in a smoky fug set the mood for his overtly erotic collection, which included a silk chiffon dress printed with dollar signs.

Fishnet was his fetish fabric in this peepshow world, used for panels let into the back of a trench coat, or across the bosom of a dress or into a leather skirt, giving an unexpected glimpse of near nudity.

For Gaultier it was all about titillation: "seeing bare flesh, showing it, but not being able to touch it, only look."

Gaultier, resolutely against any form of political correctness, again showed fur, despite 50 anti-fur campaigners protesting noisily outside the venue. This time fur was combined with fishnet, so hoods pulled down over the eyes still had a window onto the world, as in strict Islamic dress.

Tsumori Chisato's show was all about the romance of the big city at night, inspired by the skyline of her native Toyko and a visit to Australia where the stars shine more brightly without light pollution.

The backdrop of brooding skyscrapers could have been New York, as suggested by the soundtrack of Gershwin's Rhapsody in Blue, and landmarks like Paris' Eiffel tower turned up on the clothes.

Everything was spangled with shooting stars and crescent moons, from prints picked out in silver or gold, to matching hose, sometimes with giant ghostly full moons on one leg.

Her fascination with the circus came out in Pierrot ruffled collars and harlequin pants, and Saint Exupery's classic fairytale "Le Petit Prince" clearly influenced the naive figures in the prints.

Geometric patterns of chevrons and triangles in soft pastel pinks, greys and ice blue with flashes of glitter were cut into floaty tops with elongated sleeves and pyjamas, which fall into star and moon shapes when laid flat, the designer told AFP backstage.

A savvy dresser might want to dispense with the corrugated pants with knee pads and crumpled leggings which were paired with some of the tops.

Instead of the usual sullen stomp, models at French design duo Marithe and Francois Giraud's show bopped their way around the runway.

The clothes were cheerful and sassy. Drawstrings came with everything - round the hem, down the side, across the front or back, even in triplicate - which could be pulled in tightly to create the effect of ruching or eased for a totally different look.

Low-slung pants, dangling with shoelace strings, exposed midriffs, while knee-high boots laced up at the back over nude hose in a knowingly erotic way.

While little bloomers with puffed hems would be best left to teenagers, the roomy chunky knit cardigans-cum-coats and quilted parkas looked as if they could be adjusted for any age group.

Also on Saturday, US designer Jeremy Scott presented his oddball collection dubbed "Mouse Trap" dedicated to Walt Disney's most famous creation, Mickey Mouse.

Mickey's face beamed from trainers, white gloves fashioned into a stole or a poncho and a black leather riding coat, thrown open to reveal red bermuda shorts by a male model.

The models sported red shoes with white spots like the dress worn by Mickey's companion Minnie.

And Scott reminded us that mice like cheese with his sweaters, easy pants, hood and scarf combo and biker's jacket, all with big holes eaten out of them like Gruyere, in an enlivening palette of day-glo pinks, red, apple green and acid yellow.

Black wool mini-dresses were covered with buttons, which also did duty as belts.

Fans in the front row included the voluptuous front singer of Gossip, Beth Ditto, and the rapper Kanye West.