Jan 21, 2010
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For men next winter, macho sporty or retro classic?

Jan 21, 2010

MILAN, Italy, Jan 20, 2010 (AFP) - From DSquared's in-your-face ice hockey bully to Armani's classic chic with a slightly retro feel, Italy's top designers are cannily proposing a wide range of styles for men next winter.

DSquared in Milan - Photo: AFP

The DSquared twins Dean and Dan Caten did not disappoint on the final day of Milan's men's fashion week on Tuesday 19 January, offering a glam rock show featuring leather-clad models perched on high-heeled boots who were covered in sparkles or trailed ostrich feathers from their sleeves.

And making a grand entrance, Tokyo Hotel singer Bill Kaulitz descended majestically in an elevator cage in a scene reminiscent of "The Rocky Horror Picture Show".

Drawing inspiration from ice hockey brawls, the Canadian twins painted black eyes and blood on the noses of bad-boy models wearing "blood-spattered" jerseys or a leather jacket over a bare torso daubed with a skull and crossbones.

Sleeveless white shirts, their collars also apparently spotted with blood, came out over wide leather bermudas, accessorised with chains round the neck or waist, leather fingerless gloves, or wool rasta caps.

Italian duo Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana meanwhile took an alpine route, proposing red, yellow and green ski pants as well as corduroy and even fur trousers for their D&G second line.

Oversized mittens, tasseled wool caps pulled well down over the ears, chapkas or helmets sporting ski goggles atop the visor and sturdy boots completed the sporty outdoorsman look.

Giorgio Armani dressed his models in more classical style, recalling the 1940s with Basque berets and trousers tucked into military boots or leather gaiters for a look suggesting wartime Resistance fighters.

The Italian icon also went for relaxed chic with warm and elegant fabrics such as cashmere, suede and velvet in fluid cuts.

"Today's man wants fashion to suit everyday living," said the head of Italy's fashion buyers' association, Beppe Angiolini, confirming a notable return to simplicity since the 2007-08 financial crisis.

On Monday 18 January, Gucci offered toned-down luxury with designer Frida Giannini going back to basics with camel-hair or velvet jackets over turtleneck sweaters and straight trousers. Opulence was suggested in details such as leather buttons and suede elbow patches.

The collection was made up of items that are "easily interchangeable and made to last," Gucci said.

British designer John Richmond was on the same page, proposing comfortable simplicity in parkas with fur-lined hoods, down jackets and fuddy-duddy cardigans.

The sports motif was strong with Kean Etro's jogging pants topped with a plaid suitcoat, as well as jodphurs, oversized sweaters and floor-length scarves.by Dominique Muret

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