×
1 862
Fashion Jobs
ESTÉE LAUDER
Tom Ford - Business Manager - Flannels - Fosse Park, Leicester - 37.5 Hours - Full-Time - Permanent
Permanent · Leicester
VF INTERNATIONAL
International Account Coordinator - Ftc 12 Month
Permanent · NOTTINGHAM
TIMBERLAND
Credit Controller - German Speaking - Timberland
Permanent · CALVERTON
THE NORTH FACE
Credit Controller - Italian Speaking - The North Face
Permanent · CALVERTON
THE NORTH FACE
Credit Controller - French Speaking - The North Face
Permanent · CALVERTON
PINKO
Supervisor
Permanent · MANCHESTER
RALPH LAUREN
Operations Manager
Permanent · Cheshire
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Lisburn, Boots - Sprucefield - 30 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Lisburn
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Edinburgh, John Lewis - 37 Hours - Full-Time, Permanent
Permanent · Edinburgh
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Lisburn, Boots - Sprucefield - 30 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Lisburn
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Lisburn, Boots - 30 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Lisburn
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Lisburn, Boots - 30 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Lisburn
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Lisburn, Boots - 30 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Lisburn
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - House of Fraser, Maidstone - 15 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Maidstone
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Boots, Princes Street, Edinburgh - 14 Hours - Part Time - Permanent
Permanent · Edinburgh
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Lisburn, Boots - 30 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Lisburn
HUGO BOSS
Wholesale - Senior Sales Executive - Hugo Womenswear
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - John Lewis, Edinburgh - 16 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Edinburgh
SHISEIDO
Marketing Director - Shiseido, Clé de Peau Beauté, Drunk Elephant
Permanent · London
REISS
Buying Admin Assistant
Permanent · LONDON
SHISEIDO
Bareminerals Account Manager - Boots Glasgow Silverburn (37.5 Hours)
Permanent · Glasgow
SHISEIDO
Bareminerals Account Manager - House of Fraser Guildford (37.5 Hours)
Permanent · Guildford
Advertisements
By
AFP
Published
Jun 8, 2010
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Fashion looks to safe side in latest designer transfers

By
AFP
Published
Jun 8, 2010

PARIS, June 8, 2010 (AFP) - Flamboyant couturier Jean-Paul Gaultier is leaving Hermes to be replaced by Lacoste's in-house stylist, Britain's Giles Deacon is to join Ungaro -- in times of crisis, fashion looks to safe designers and wearable garb.


Hermes - Photo: AFP

"These men are stylists who believe fashion must do more than shine, it must have meaning, and this is a direct consequence of the (global financial) crisis," Jean-Jacques Picart, a consultant who works with the world's top luxury goods firm, LVMH, told AFP.

"They don't even like being called creators, they describe themselves as designers," he said of Deacon and Lacoste's Christophe Lemaire.

"Egos, over-the-top styles, unwearable stuff -- it's all become unfashionable."

Seeing designers play musical chairs from one house to another is common enough in the world of high-end wear. But with contracts often inked in for short two- to three-year periods, the risk factor in fashion transfers is far higher than in the sports world.

Gaultier's departure as artistic director of the luxury ready-to-wear brand Hermes was announced last week. "That's it, the end of a beautiful story which lasted seven years," he told AFP. His last Hermes collection, spring-summer 2011, will be presented in October this year.

The month of May is ideal for such announcements, said luxury consultant Donald Potard. "With the next season's collection already on the drawing board, the upset is minimised."

But while footballers are instantly operational, a new designer needs to soak up the history, style and substance of a house before producing an entire collection that meets the standards and look of the label.

"Or that signals a complete break with the past," said Olivier Saillard, the new head of Paris' Galliera fashion museum.

Saillard said the designer merry-go-round started in the 1960s but hotted up in recent years, with some couturiers spending too little time at one house.

Gaultier's seven-year stay at Hermes, where he headed womenswear, was a reasonable length, enabling the designer to imprint a style.

Other houses such as Ungaro, more recently, had changed designers each season at a "hysterical, almost comical" pace, he said. "It's a sign the house is in bad shape.

"There's no set recipe but a good transfer is often one that's been thought through and that's announced without fanfare," he added.

He noted in example the discreet arrival at Balenciaga in 1997 of Nicolas Ghesquiere, who since "has become one of the most influential creators on the scene," or of Alber Elbaz, the celebrated American-Israeli designer, at Lanvin in 2001.

"A designer matures within the comfort of a house but it takes more than just one season," even when the bankers are insisting on a quick fix, Saillard said.

Too many designer musical chairs turn stylists into stars, "diminishing the humility factor" in a job where experience counts, he added, noting the long and discreet 20-year term spent designing Hermes' lucrative men's lines by Veronique Nichanian.

Picart said a new house designer should never be judged before their third collection. "The designer's first collection indicates his desires, the second enables him to make corrections and the third is a confirmation."

Both Gaultier's replacement at Hermes, Christophe Lemaire, 45, and Briton Giles Deacon, 40, who was appointed to Ungaro in May, "are less excessive, less concerned by appearances, less futile than some of their predecessors," he added.

"They're a new generation of fashion designers," Picart said. "They have a new attitude that's a result of the crisis."by Gersende Rambourg

Copyright © 2021 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.