Emerging designers from ModaLisboa and Portugal Fashion show in Paris
Little by little, physical fashion shows are making a come-back, and Portuguese fashion platforms ModaLisboa and Portugal Fashion have decided to tap the buzz sparked by Paris Fashion Week to showcase their emerging talents to international industry professionals, staging a show on October 1 at the Galerie Joseph venue, in Paris’s Marais district.
In a post-industrial, minimalistic setting, three emerging Portuguese designers had the chance to express themselves, showcasing their Spring/Summer 2022 collections with dynamic, interactive show-performances bursting with ideas, in front of an in-person audience.
Constança Entrudo, a designer who studied at Central Saint Martins and then worked at renowned labels like Balmain, Peter Pilotto and Marques Almeida, is a highly interesting new name. In her signature, innovative style peppered with patchwork elements and drawing extensively on upcycled garments, Entrudo staged a theatrical dialogue between 1960s European and Brazilian poetry, featuring artisanal blended fabrics. Her siren-like models, clad in open-work dresses with asymmetric cuts, lateral slits and flowing fabrics reminiscent of fishing nets, wove their way around a 3D stage installation with an organic feel.
Ricardo Andrez specialises in giving new life to fabric off-cuts. He travelled to Paris to present a contemporary, technology-centred collection, its focus the use fabrics that are sensitive to body temperature.
His models staged a catwalk show circling ceaselessly around one of the gallery’s rooms, wearing flowing quilted sets made in denim with different washes, make-up giving their faces a glossy, wet look. The colour palette of pink, lilac and blue was remarkably consistent with that of Constança Entrudo’s collection. The looks featured lightweight layers of open-necked cotton shirts, draped dresses, and jackets and coats with oversize sleeves and shoulders.
Young designer Maria Carlos Baptista, backed by the Portugal Fashion platform, emphasised the power of women with her ‘Matria’ collection. Darker-hued than the others, and full of Goth references, the collection notably presented a long turtleneck dress in black lace, and a bare-back dress with shades of bright sunny colours in the lower section. True to Baptista's style, this eclectic collection exemplified the designer's penchant for mixed textures and recycling.
The event had the feel of an hors d’oeuvre, ahead of the main course that will be dished out in Lisbon in a few days. Lisbon Fashion Week will in fact be held on October 7-17, right after Paris Fashion Week, and will be staged in physical format for the first time after the pandemic. The programme includes 21 catwalk shows by 34 designers, among them Constança Entrudo and Ricardo Andrez, and other big names in Portuguese fashion like Luis Buchinho, Luis Carvalho and Gonçalo Peixoto.
Portugal Fashion is instead finalising the details of its forthcoming event, scheduled in Porto on October 12-16 and featuring labels and designers Luis Onofre, Pé de Chumbo, David Catalan, Ernest W. Baker and Marques Almeida.
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