Denim Première Vision showcases market trends for Spring/Summer 2020
Denim Première Vision, the trade show specialised in denim fabrics and sourcing, presented the main market trends for the Spring/Summer 2020 at its latest session, held for the first time in London on December 5 and 6. For the occasion, the show’s creative team developed four themes, labelled ‘Discover’, ‘Care & Share’, ‘Performance Perspective’ and ‘Personalisation, Be You’.
‘Discover’ underlined the fact that fashion means attitude, tolerance, inclusiveness, no restrictions, style and beauty. The goal for the industry is to forge ahead towards new directions, cultures and aspects of life. The trends for this theme were “airy blues”, featuring “ultra clean, homogeneous, very soft and light-coloured” washed fabrics - combining unique lightness and smoothness that “make it possible to extend the vocabulary of shapes, especially for tops, while in the past light, thin fabrics couldn’t withstand the various treatments,” – as well as delicate, eco-responsible finishings. The fabrics come alive with relief, material and colour effects: openwork patterns, a 3D feel through the use of patches, origami influences and trouser hems that are frayed or simply worn by time and usage.
The second theme, ‘Care and Share’, focused on how fashion can help and support, especially by adopting a responsible approach to social issues and the environment: “we share ideas, questions, doubts, convictions and solutions with an open-source attitude.” Among the main expressions of this theme, there was an array of soft, loose, flexible, lightweight fabrics with a post-streetwear feel, alongside more feminine ones with a nod to silky, flowing materials; linen in all its dark blue hues, with a mat finish in contrast to bling brilliance; delicate treatments and washes; tone-on-tone stripes and soft, heavier fabrics designed to cater to a “new masculinity.”
The ‘Performance Perspective’ theme analysed fashion as performance, as a service promoting a better life, as sustainability and stable, long-term relationships. Fashion must also be flexible and directional, to enable us to move outside our comfort zone and become “an everyday hero in real life.” The trend here is all about recycled denim, even denim fabrics that include synthetic fibres. “In less than a year, fabric manufacturers have managed to produce recycled synthetic fabrics which conserve all their properties, from colour to elasticity. Before, they didn’t have the persistence they have now,” said Pascaline Wilhelm, creative director of Première Vision. Issuing from this theme, a plethora of environmentally friendly finishings, sophisticated stretch fabrics with a ready-to-wear feel and skin-tight super-stretch ones for a sport vibe, multi-pocket denim ideal for carrying digital devices as an evolution of workwear and functional fashion, fabrics whose distinctive feature is solidity and organic cotton fabrics which are still part of the landscape though, according to Wilhelm, this isn’t the most “relevant” direction for the industry.
The final theme was ‘Personalisation, Be You’, focusing on fashion as communication, as a form of expression and identity, and as a way of connecting to a cause. “This trend is in opposition to the homogenisation that can be found in fashion. It gives free rein to highly visual designs that will be able to make a difference in stores or in a collection,” said Wilhelm.
‘Personalisation’ takes the shape of embroidery, graded and shaded effects, spray-on colour swatches, overdyes and colour splashes for arty, high-impact effects, producing extremely colourful fabrics which can turn into useful commercial tools in this world made of countless shades of indigo.
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