×
1 056
Fashion Jobs
BLACK PR
Sales Account Manager
Permanent · LONDON BOROUGH OF HACKNEY
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Boots, Inverness - 18 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Inverness
RELY RECRUITMENT
Head of Finance / Finance Manager
Permanent · LONDON
LEVI'S
Performance Marketing Manager
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
la Mer - Business Manager - Bentalls, Kingston - 22.5 Hours / 4 Days - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Kingston upon Thames
SHISEIDO
Ecommerce Manager - Nars, Shiseido & Drunk Elephant
Permanent · London
VANS
Account Coordinator - Dutch Speaking - Vans
Permanent · NOTTINGHAM
ESTÉE LAUDER
The Estée Lauder Companies - CRM And Loyalty Manager
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - John Lewis, Bluewater - 25.5 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Dartford
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Boots - Metro, Gateshead - 21 Hours - Part Time, Permanent
Permanent · Gateshead
ESTÉE LAUDER
Director, Global Social Marketing
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
Tom Ford - Business Manager - John Lewis, Milton Keynes - 37.5 Hours, Days - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Milton Keynes
SHISEIDO
Nars Account Manager, Fenwick Bond Street (37.5 Hours)
Permanent · London
LIBERTY LTD
Sales Manager
Permanent · LONDON
LIBERTY LTD
Retail Security Officer
Permanent · LONDON
VF INTERNATIONAL
Inbound Logistics Analyst - 12 Month Ftc
Permanent · COALVILLE
VF INTERNATIONAL
Warehouse Trainer
Permanent · COALVILLE
VF INTERNATIONAL
dc Team Leader
Permanent · COALVILLE
ESTÉE LAUDER
Clinique - Consultant - Boots, White City London - 35 Hours - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · London
ESTÉE LAUDER
la Mer - Business Manager - Harvey Nichols, Birmingham - 37.5 Hours / 5 Days - Full Time, Permanent
Permanent · Birmingham
ESTÉE LAUDER
Regulatory Scientist - Global Ingredients Compliance
Permanent · Petersfield
SHISEIDO
Finance Analyst
Permanent · London
By
AFP
Published
Feb 18, 2016
Reading time
3 minutes
Share
Download
Download the article
Print
Click here to print
Text size
aA+ aA-

Bibhu wows New York with nod to imperial China

By
AFP
Published
Feb 18, 2016

Indian-born designer Bibhu Mohapatra, who has dressed Michelle Obama and Gwyneth Paltrow, unveiled a stunning fall/winter collection in New York inspired by one of the most important women in Chinese history.

Mohapatra, who has been a fixture at New York Fashion Week since 2009, was inspired by empress dowager Cixi, the former concubine turned 19th century regent who was a powerful figure in China for nearly 50 years.

Bibhu Mohapatra AW16/17 New York Fashion Week - Twitter @BibhuMohapatra


British Indian author Salman Rushdie, one of the greatest living writers in the English language, was guest of honor and posed for a series of selfies with Mohapatra and female guests backstage.

Mohapatra said the collection celebrated "the prowess and poise of the mysterious female mind," and was greeted by ecstatic applause when he appeared on the runway at the end of the show.

The designer, who dressed the first lady when she and Barack Obama made a landmark visit to India in 2015, said he would "love" to dress Hillary Clinton, campaigning to become America's first woman president.

Dragonflies were leitmotif of the collection, fashioned into double-wrap leather belts, made into leather chokers and picked out in embroidery and sequins on evening dresses and coats.

"Dragonflies really have a lot of cultural meaning to everything," Mohapatra told AFP backstage between being congratulated by friends.

"They're prophetic in a lot of instances, it's about good crop, good weather and it's meaningful," he said.

As a child, he used to try to catch them but his mother would warn him to be careful. "They're very delicate, so I love them so I wanted to incorporate them," he said.

His 2016 fall/winter collection also celebrated opulent furs -- his mastery testament to his past nine-year stint as design director at iconic French furrier J. Mendel.

- Practical furs -

There were furs in all shapes, sizes and colors: a black fur collar and hem on a black leather trench coat, a stripy red and orange fur coat, a teal fox vest and rosewater mink.

Despite the discomfort that some designers feel about using real fur, Mohapatra said it was important that they were sourced responsibly.

Bibhu Mohapatra AW16/17 New York Fashion Week - Twitter @BibhuMohapatra


"As we're going into global uncertainty climate wise, it's important to be protected and furs are really practical no matter what," he said. "They have their stigma -- so does silk, so does cotton -- and as long as they are sourced responsibly they are fine."

Day wear was a lean silhouette with high necklines and long skirts. Evening wear was sumptuous -- the overall effect princess meets Bollywood meets Star Wars with regal trains.

There were strapless ball gowns, figure-hugging sheaths and black velveteen that fell in soft folds. Grecian-style dresses in silk chiffon billowed in white and green, and his final gown was strapless ivory and ebony with a thick gold train.

There was lavish use of imperial red, pagoda embroidery, embroidered dragon fly and a chocolate chinchilla coat with alligator waist detail.

The collection hit several key trends of the season, including buckle accessories as also seen from Alexander Wang and Vera Wang.

As at Oscar de la Renta, Mohapatra included a giant bow at the back of the neck on an evening dress, his in gold, and there was metallic brocade as at Michael Kors in the morning.

Mohapatra grew up in Orissa, in eastern India and moved to the United States in 1996. After getting a masters in economics from Utah State University he studied at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology.

He launched his eponymous collection in New York in 2009 and his clothes sell across the United States, Europe, Russia and the Middle East.

Copyright © 2022 AFP. All rights reserved. All information displayed in this section (dispatches, photographs, logos) are protected by intellectual property rights owned by Agence France-Presse. As a consequence you may not copy, reproduce, modify, transmit, publish, display or in any way commercially exploit any of the contents of this section without the prior written consent of Agence France-Presses.