Arturo Obegero, Alled-Martinez, and Oteyza: menswear with a Spanish twist
Three Spanish designers represent their country’s craftsmanship as they participate in this season’s Paris Fashion Week agenda. The trio presented designs tinged with traditional elements that blend into adolescent irreverence.
This Sunday, on Jan. 23, the Asturian creative, Arturo Obegero, presented an intimate fashion show at 3537 Dover Street Market, the cultural space that has additionally hosted several pop-up events, including an immersive Instagram installation, throughout these past few days. The Paris-based brand presented the audiovisual short film and a physical fashion show to its handful of loyal followers, accompanied by the music of a string quartet.
Violins and Calais lace compose Arturo Obegero’s Fall 2022 collection
The collection, entitled “Rue de Rome”, featured a short film in which models posed in scenes associated with a stereotypical Parisian lifestyle, from walking out of the Paris metro to sipping coffee on terrace cafes. The models continuously sprayed their necks and wrists with Arturo Obegero’s debut fragrance, “Azabache,” made in partnership with the perfume house, Pigmentarium. The models were filmed walking through the French capital as they frantically rushed to arrive at the Rue des Francs-Bourgeois location to watch the physical Arturo Obegero fashion show.
Obegero’s signature dramatic style and references to theater and dance were present in the violin-inspired collection composed of 20 looks. Women and men dressed in black, white and emerald green hues sensually strutted down the catwalk. The side slits and high waistlines on the pants mimicked the costumes of only the most elegant bullfighters. The male looks featured short voluminous jackets, extensions of fabrics that converted into shawls, knitted tops, and boat necks. Detailed black lace covering the male models' bodies accessoried the looks, creating the illusion of tattoos. On the other hand, the female models accessorized by feather headdresses wore asymmetrical avant-garde lingerie dresses and provocative lace nipple covers. Obegero tried his hand at bridalwear, presenting a lace-detailed cocktail dress with sheer placements, a sensual reinterpretation of a traditional Spanish mantilla.
“We continue to grow little by little,” said Obegero as he received hugs and congratulatory praises from the applauding audience. The designer who previously worked for Lanvin and has just started selling his designs on the multi-brand e-commerce platform, Ssense, is working on opening his own studio in Paris. Arturo Obegero’s fashion show undoubtedly reinforces the brand’s continued growth as it enters a more developed stage.
Homoerotic sportswear by Alled-Martinez
Just a few hours later, the Palais de Tokyo in Paris presented the Barcelona-born designer, Alled-Martinez. The museum, also currently hosting the Tranoï fashion tradeshow, screened the Central Saint Martins alumnus's short film directed by Pau Carrete entitled “Enfant Terrible” showcasing the eponymous label’s sixth collection since its launch. The designer, who has previously worked at Givenchy and was nominated for the LVMH Prize in 2020, infused the nostalgia of the early 2000s in his Fall 2022 collection.
Homoerotic inspiration makes up the collection, as the garments inspired by preppy high school uniforms represent moments of adolescent sexual exploration. A slim-fitting red T-shirt with a single white cross, resembling the Swiss flag, was paired suggestively with extremely low-rise cargo pants exposing white boxers. The “Enfant Terrible” logo was seen stamped throughout the collection which also consisted of cotton graphic tops, long-sleeved striped polo shirts, a baseball overshirt in denim, lightweight shorts, and cargo pants in different colors.
The fashion brand stated that the message of this collection was to emphasize “the importance of finding an early comfort with one’s sexual preferences, a vital need that can be possible with the help of an understanding, welcoming and respectful society; a reality that has yet to be achieved.”
Oteyza modernizes its traditional style
The menswear brand, founded by Paul García de Oteyza and Caterina Piñeda in 2012, returned to Men’s Paris Fashion Week last Thursday, Jan. 20, in the form of a digital fashion show. The fashion film depicted models walking in front of a pristinely white, minimalist backdrop highlighting the refined silhouettes and craftsmanship of the Spanish sartorial brand. Oteyza decided to take a more commercialized approach to its designs this menswear season after the fashion group, Perfumes y Diseño, acquired a stake in the Spanish brand’s shareholdings in April 2021.
Since this acquisition, Oteyza’s objectives have been to incorporate streetwear into its future collections by creating more relaxed silhouettes and adding more casual accessories, such as sneakers, to its product portfolio. The brand aims to produce trendier and more wearable pieces as it continues to target a global market under an urban luxury brand positioning.
The collection entitled “Marinas” drew its inspiration from the Atlantic Ocean, fishermen, and the work of abstract painter Nicolas de Staël to create functional and versatile garments. The collection used a color palette featuring shades of navy blue, mustard, and orange along with classic shades of blacks, grays, and browns to create modern reinterpretations of the brand’s classic tailored coats, suits, and capes. Bucket hats, rain boots, and briefcases stood out among the accessories while wool, mohair, Egyptian cotton, and neoprene fabrics showcased the fashion house’s elevated craftsmanship.
Oteyza, awarded the “Madrid Capital de Moda” in 2021 by the Madrid City Council, plans on returning to Paris Fashion Week with a physical fashion show this coming June.
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