Alexander McQueen, Henry Moore in the Navigli

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
Jan 13, 2020

Fashion brands wanting to know how to stage a convincing presentation should have sent an emissary to check out Alexander McQueenʼs event this weekend. For the UK brand’s unveiling of its latest menswear collection – inspired by the work of sculptor Henry Moore - was a salutary lesson in combining art, edge, taste and photography.

 
And the location, a marvelous old factory just off Navigli, Milan’s canal district, was done up with perfectly worn club chairs and Gio Ponti-style furniture. The walls lined with massive lookbook photos, earthy images of these clothes. Think Celtic couture for men.
 
In the corner, a string quintet of two cellos and three violins playing chamber music, the very sounds that Moore listened to in his studio.

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Veritable top-notch tailoring throughout seen in three-quarter coats made of hardy, coal-black Donegal tweed, or bonded mineral-hued suede or some remarkable leather. The latter came courtesy of William Clark, the last Irish craftsman practicing the ancient skill of garment bettling. A technique used on linen in McQueen’s spring 2020 women’s collection.

 
A brilliantly edited cast posed in remarkable Argyle sweaters made of mash-ups of maps, McQueen skulls and black smears.  Crossbred Celtic as well, with all sorts of blends of military motifs, harnesses and exterior hunting pockets – others were even finished with dark fabric thistles. Several looks embroidered with remarkable abstract panels and gestures composed of densely woven sequins, bullion and molten metal moiré.
 
Compliments also to Sergio Salerni of Urban Production, Italy’s best show producer, who handles everyone from Dolce & Gabbana and Valentino shows.
 
Milan, McQueen, Italy, Puglia and Celtic culture all happily meeting in an evocative moment.