Alexander McQueen pre-fall 2021: Saturated silhouettes

By

Godfrey Deeny

Published
May 18, 2021

Supersonic silhouettes in saturated colors is the key story in the latest collection from the house of Alexander McQueen, capturing the current zeitgeist for a powerful expression of female authority.

 
The UK fashion house just released its latest video, showcasing designer Sarah Burton’s ideas for pre-fall 2021,  presented to key clients in McQueen’s flagships this past weekend.
 
In part the mood is a continuation of the exaggerated shapes of spring-summer, with bold tailoring featuring leg-of-mutton sleeves, flared coats and dramatic shoulders.

Burton termed the collection: “A study of clothing and character: portraits.” Featuring clothes made in technical textiles in couture-worthy shapes. Like a flash bomber cocoon jacket that morphs into a parka skirt – all made in polyfaille. Like many looks, worn over the knee-high leather Wellington boots.
 
During the pandemic, McQueen has produced several tough-chic videos, shot near the White Cliffs of Dover, or along the muddy banks of the Thames in East London. This pre-fall, however, is a simpler shuddering studio video, starring her self-assured cast.
 
During next month’s European menswear season, McQueen expects to unveil another video, though is mulling a return to the catwalks during the next women’s ready-to-wear season in September and October, regulations permitting.
 
Among the other highlights are pink or baby blue poly taffeta gathered dresses, finished with ruffled collars and cocoon sleeves; mannish coats with military buttons worn with white Elizabethan ruffled shirts; and an utterly cool tuxedo mess jacket cut micro-short. Often, a dash of street cred’ is added by linings in bright orange.
 
Along with a phantasmagorical perfecto, cut as a black leather orchid, trimmed with zips and worn over bouffant skirt in ecru. And some striking crystal doves of peace and stars embroidered over an inky blue indigo polyfaille bouffant dress. While for hottest days of summer there are paper-print white poplin dresses finished with street art and punky symbols.
 
The latest chapter in dramatic style in Burton’s growing encyclopaedia of robust urban chic with a romantic twist.