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Nicola Mira
Published
Jan 12, 2017
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PS by Paul Smith line is a hit as British designer returns to Pitti Uomo

Translated by
Nicola Mira
Published
Jan 12, 2017

Reversible, reflective, weather-proof, crease-resistant, water-repellent and lightweight: the new PS by Paul Smith collection seems to have been designed for James Bond. You can wear it riding a bike or even launching into roundoffs and cartwheels, without fear of ripping the clothes and without breaking sweat, the trouser crease always perfectly crisp. You can even walk through a thunderstorm without getting drenched. It needed a special event to showcase such sartorial feats, and the PS by Paul Smith show on Wednesday evening in Florence was a high-energy, ultra-colourful performance.


PS by Paul Smith's all-weather collection - Pitti Immqgine Proj3ct Studio


The British designer was the very first guest of honour at Pitti Uomo in 1993, and his return was a great success with the Florentine audience, as a group of dancers/acrobats highlighted the collection's functional features in a well-choreographed show.

"[The collection] is designed to fit the daily needs of contemporary young globe-trotters, focusing on comfort and a practical wardrobe," said the designer, who looked in top form.

A year ago, the fashion label restructured its range around the main brand, Paul Smith, and the younger, more accessible line, PS, which now also includes the denim range and looks more complete.


Paul Smith among his acrobat models - Pitti Immagine Proj3ct Studio


Paul Smith followed up on the crease-free, weather-proof wool suit launched last year, known as 'A suit to travel in', further developing the concept and showcasing at Pitti six key garments, all with the same highly functional approach.

A business suit in a highly resistant fabric for cycling around town, with trousers fitting tightly at the waist and calf; an ultra-lightweight raincoat you can squeeze in the palm of your hand and which fits into a mini kit bag; and a breathable, water-repellent parka which stays always dry.

Also, a windcheater with reflective strips that glow in the dark when illuminated by headlights; trousers whose creases can withstand several washes and finally a reversible, water-proof jacket.

The Florence event has allowed Paul Smith to illustrate the evolution of its more accessible line, giving maximum visibility to the collection's distinctive features.


Paul Smith loves bikes, a source of inspiration for this collection - Pitti Immagine Proj3ct Studio


PS by Paul Smith accounts for 55% of the group's total sales. The collection retails at prices that are 30% cheaper than the main line, with jeans priced at €150-160 and suits starting from €650-700.

It is available at multi-brand stores and, since October, also at PS by Paul Smith branded shops: in the course of a few months, the label has opened 11 branded stores, either through reconversions or new openings, like those in Paris, London, Hong Kong, New York and Singapore.

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