Elie Saab shows poetry in motion

Lebanese designer Elie Saab dazzled his fans in Paris with a poetic collection, inspired by one of the greatest Romantic ballets, Giselle, and filled with tulle, organza, feathers and velvet, which framed the most delicate dresses of the next season.

Elie Saab - Fall-Winter2017 - Womenswear - Paris - © PixelFormula

Dark colours such as deep purple, blue and black the collection, while the layers of tulle, ruffle and other embellishments demonstrated the high-end craftsmanship behind the designs. The brand’s signature use of lace ensured that even the boldest fans were charmed.

The catwalk show was transformed into a recital of poetry for a mysterious and nostalgic woman, who wears romantic clothes with an elegant chignon and a gold tiara, and rocks a sparkly smoky eye.

Short dresses featuring ruffles and layers of volume were worn under minimal coats and embellished outerwear.
The looks were updated with skin tight thigh-high boots, while trousers were paired with black boxy jackets.

The lily flower made several appearances throughout the show, embroidered on a black leather jacket, featuring in gold-studded Swarovski embellishments and etched into lace and velvet, referencing the tragic and beautiful story of Giselle.

And while Saab’s gowns are set to become a hit on the red carpet, the designer also included some easy-to-wear pieces such as an embroidered black biker jacket.

Some of the brand’s most loyal fans attended the show, including NYC ‘It’ girl Olivia Palermo and fashion model Arizona Muse, who wore a number from the label’s Spring Summer 2017 collection.

Elie Saab - Fall-Winter2017 - Womenswear - Paris - © PixelFormula

From Elie Saab’s romanticism to Vivienne Westwood’s theatrical British look, the Parisian catwalk saw thick winter fabrics paired with vintage prints and geometric silhouettes.

Following the English trend of ‘mix and match’, the looks were made by mixing prints and colours, with a particular emphasis on floral motifs. This was also evident in menswear looks, which featured in the show together with womenswear outfits.

The brand surprised the audience by putting men in dresses and sending a model down the catwalk wearing a long-legged dirndl patterned in Alpine florals overlaid with a phallus.

Eveningwear featured more baroque details with voluminous ruffles, plunging necklines and asymmetric sleeves.
The silky floral fabrics also had an Asian touch, while bomber jackets -which have become a regular trend on the high street in recent years – were reinterpreted into evening gowns.

Vivienne Westwood herself walked the catwalk in an oversized pink and purple pinstripe bomber jacket with matching asymmetrical hem skirt, wearing neon pink makeup and a touch of pink on her hair.

Finally, Paris-based Belgian designer Véronique Leroy drew inspiration from 80s styling and chose velvet as her star material, although a range of colours including grey, amber and soft green gave the collection a more elegant feel.

Jumpsuits, bodies, boots and leg warmers made up the proposal.

Translated by Barbara Santamaria

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